What is Classic Fit? Mastering Suit Fit and Timeless Tailoring

When it comes to classic menswear, there’s one rule that stands above the rest: fit is king.  

A beautifully crafted suit is only as good as its fit, which should not only look incredible but feel just as good to wear. So, what does “classic fit” really mean, and how should a "drape fit" suit actually fit?

For Mike Banks, a longtime client with a love for old-school, timeless style, classic fit is about combining style with comfort and versatility. His approach to fit is all about timeless elements that deliver both style and comfort, giving him a classic look that’s as relevant today as it was decades ago.

For Mike, his custom-fit wardrobe starts with a focus on one of the most crucial areas in tailoring: the shoulders. With his naturally square shoulders, most off-the-rack jackets just don’t lay right—sitting too high on the back neck or creating an awkward curl at the back (what we call a "collar roll".

Bespoke shoulder adjustments allow the jacket to lay smoothly, with fabric draping naturally down the back and enhancing the overall silhouette. A properly fitted shoulder creates a strong foundation for the rest of the suit, eliminating common fit issues and letting the quality of the fabric and cut shine.

Key Points for a Classic Fit:

• Seamless Shoulder Drape: Adjusting the shoulders for the unique shape of the client allows for a clean, wrinkle-free back.
• Flawless Collar Positioning: No collar roll on the jacket; and the shirt collar sits precisely where it should (showing about 3/8" above the jacket collar from the back).
• Enhanced Fabric Flow: With a perfected shoulder fit, the fabric can drape beautifully, highlighting the quality of the material and the garment’s craftsmanship.

Drape fit, or classic fit, is a style that prioritizes room and movement over a body-hugging cut.

For Mike’s jackets, we use a fuller cut that allows the fabric to drape perfectly around his frame without clinging too closely. This gives the look a romantic, almost cinematic quality, with a silhouette that feels both comfortable and polished. The drape fit allows movement, giving the garment an almost living quality that moves with him, rather than constricting him.

• Fuller Cut: The jacket offers some room, allowing the fabric to flow naturally.
• Comfort and Movement: As he moves, the jacket moves with him, creating a look that’s classic and effortless.
• Timeless Shape: This roomier fit doesn’t chase trends—it’s a timeless choice that feels sophisticated and relaxed.

Every detail counts when deciding how a suit should fit. For Mike’s custom fit, we show just a quarter-inch of shirt cuff under his jacket sleeve—a small but impactful touch. We also adjust the length of the body of the jacket, going just a touch longer than the standard.

While many clients prefer the jacket to hit right at the crotch level, going slightly longer complements the fuller cut and completes the drape fit look.

• Subtle Sleeve: Showing a quarter inch of shirt cuff adds elegance.
• Slightly Extended Jacket Length: A bit longer length complements the roomier cut, lending balance to the classic fit’s natural flow.

With each element of Mike’s jacket tailored to his frame, the result is a timeless fit that will never go out of style.

This approach to fit allows the quality of the fabric and craftsmanship to shine, creating a garment that not only looks incredible but feels just as good to wear. It’s about achieving a balance between style, comfort, and elegance—a balance that remains timeless in the world of classic menswear.

No matter what kind of fit you prefer, when you order from Articles of Style, “the fit is always on point,” according to this 5 star TrustPilot reviewer. Another shared how “fantastic” the online process was—his “bespoke suits fit perfectly.”

Ready to find your perfect fit?

Let’s get started building a custom wardrobe tailor-made just for you.

Check out the Classic Man Capsule we designed for Mike.

Book the Capsule Wardrobe Experience.

I look forward to working with you!

Yours in style,

Dan Trepanier