Fit Guide: Custom Suits for Big and Tall Men

When you’re built like Mark - 6’4” and 250 pounds with an athletic frame—finding a suit that truly fits can feel impossible.

Off-the-rack suits are often an exercise in compromise: if the jacket fits in the chest and shoulders, it’s baggy in the stomach; if the trousers fit the waist, they’re tight in the thighs. For guys with broader frames and defined builds, a custom-fit suit is less about luxury and more about necessity.

Here’s how we tailored the ideal suit for Mark, emphasizing fit, comfort, and movement.

The first thing to get right on any jacket is the collar—it should hug the neck without gapping (too large) or creating a roll in the back (too high). In Mark’s case, a collar that contours smoothly along his neck sets the tone for the entire jacket, ensuring it drapes naturally from the shoulders. Because Mark has a strong drop from his chest to his waist, getting this balance right makes it easy to cover the chest and taper the waist - preventing that dreaded “balloon” effect around his torso.

The shoulders follow his natural slope and hit right where his arms begin. This alignment lets the lapels lie flat instead of "popping" (buckling open)—a common issue when suits are too tight in the front chest. With the collar and shoulders cut to match his frame, the jacket falls cleanly - creating a look that’s elegant and smart but also easy and relaxed.

For muscular guys, armholes and sleeves can be major pain points. Mark’s suit features a generous armhole cut, so there’s room for his biceps without the sleeve fabric pulling or excessive wrinkling. This generous cut allows the fabric to fall smoothly and gives Mark the comfort he needs for any kind of movement.

We positioned the button stance at the narrowest part of his torso, adding a natural taper that doesn’t feel restrictive. This way, Mark’s suit looks fitted, but not tight—a look that celebrates his athletic build rather than squeezing it. For length, the jacket hits right around the crotch level (and covers his seat in the back) which provides flattering upper/lower body proportions without looking too "boxy" or "top heavy".

For big and tall men like Mark, fabric choice is critical. Although lighter fabrics might seem like a natural choice for warmer climates or if you’re prone to overheating, they often wrinkle easily, wear down faster, and lack the structure needed to effectively contour a muscular frame. Instead, we opted for a stretch flannel, a fabric that provides the right balance between flexibility and durability.

This thicker, weightier material gives him a smooth, clean drape that avoids looking wrinkly or messy. And thanks to the fabric’s notable stretch, we could go a little bit slimmer to show off his physique without restricting him (or making him look "stuffed" into his suit).

When he moves—whether he's crossing his arms or giving a hug—the fabric flexes with him, making it more comfortable than a traditional non-stretch suit.

For guys like Mark, the best suit is the one made just for him. Why settle for off-the-rack fits when you could have something custom-made to look—and feel—perfectly you?

Discover how a custom-fit suit crafted for your build can redefine comfort and style - for the long term.

This suit is part of Mark's Rugged Elegance Capsule.

Book the Capsule Wardrobe Experience.

I look forward to working with you!

Yours in style,

Dan Trepanier