Overcoat Fit Guide: Custom Outerwear for a Bigger Guy

Fitting an overcoat over a suit is already a careful balancing act, but if you’re a big guy, it takes some extra finesse.

The goal? Enough room to move comfortably without looking like you’re drowning in fabric.

Here’s what to look for in an overcoat that not only fits well over a suit but also works casually, especially when you're dealing with more muscle or bulk.

When you’re wearing an overcoat over a suit, you want it to fit close to the body, but comfortably enough to allow layering without restriction. For bigger guys, this is where the fitting makes all the difference. An overcoat should fit snugly around the neck, with the lapels aligning naturally with the suit’s lapels, creating a smooth, cohesive shape. With a broader frame or muscular build, like Mark’s, it’s crucial to allow a bit more room across the shoulders and chest while still being fitted through the midsection.

Mark’s overcoat is a good example. He’s got a heavy flannel suit underneath—a thick layer by any standard—but the overcoat still buttons smoothly with no pulling. This smoothness, especially at the back, allows the overcoat to fall naturally, showing off the fabric’s quality without adding bulk or making him look "stuffed" into his clothes. 

For big guys, an overcoat should work with more than just a suit. Ideally, the fit should be slim enough to look tailored when you’re wearing it with just a sweater or tee but with enough room for thicker layers when you need them.

Mark can go from suit to t-shirt, and the coat still has a shape that accentuates his physique. Too much fabric, and suddenly you’re looking like a linebacker; too tight, and you look stuffed like a sausage.

Aim for a mid-thigh length for a coat that can be dressed-up or worn casually.

The right fabric can make all the difference.

For bigger guys, a fabric with natural insulating properties allows you to keep the coat thinner, with less unecessary bulk. It keeps the coat streamlined by giving you warmth without the extra weight -  for a shape that's tailored and clean.

Fit matters, especially when you’re a tall and muscular guy. If you’re over trying to make off-the-rack clothes work, going custom is the way forward. 

If you’re new to the bespoke suit world—we’ve got you.

After having bad experiences with other bespoke and custom tailors this 5 star reviewer on TrustPilot can vouch that “AOS is the complete opposite” and we offer a “far-superior value to other popular designers.”

Another agrees that after purchasing several pieces, Articles of Style offers “impeccable craftsmanship and world-class guidance.”

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I look forward to working with you!

Yours in style,

Dan Trepanier