The Heritage of Harris Tweed

January 19th, 2017

There’s nothing quite like Harris Tweed.

If you’ve ever owned a garment cut from authentic Harris Tweed, you know what I mean. The rugged hand feel, the dense texture, the life-long durability, the mesmerizing flecks of color… It’s an all-natural product that takes years of training to produce, can only be handwoven by the islanders in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, and legally cannot be faked.

It’s not just the look, feel and performance of this cloth that make it special. It’s also the history, tradition, and century old farm-to-fabric heritage that has become a way of life for the islanders of Northern Scotland. It’s a commodity so unique that in 1933 an Act of Parliament was passed to protect it’s authenticity and quality standards from counterfeiting, making it the only fabric in the world protected by a law of Parliament.

Originally Harris Tweed was woven by farmers for familial use, as it was ideal for protection against the coastal climates of Norther Scotland. The quality became so well regarded that surplus was often used for barter, eventually becoming a form of currency for the islanders. For example, it was not unusual for rents to be paid in blankets or lengths of cloth.

As the demand for Harris Tweed expanded in the first decade of the 20th century, there was an influx of weavers into the industry seeking to capitalize on the popularity of this natural product, and soon a poorer quality tweed was being made by inexperienced weavers from the mainland and beyond.

This sparked the Harris Tweed Act of 1993, its purpose being “to promote and maintain the authenticity, standard and reputation of Harris Tweed; for preventing the sale as Harris Tweed of material which does not fall within the definition.” Today, every 50 meters of Harris Tweed is checked by an inspector from the Harris Tweed Authority before being stamped, by hand, with the official trademark.

Over the decades Harris Tweed was embraced by the world. In its rise to prominence, Harris Tweed scaled Everest, graced the Silver Screen, sailed the Seven Seas and was showed off on red carpets and catwalks by the world’s most renowned designers. But with the rise of synthetic fabrics in the 70s, and cheap mass retail in the 90s, the industry had a downturn as consumers turned to cheap alternatives and a “quantity over quality” mode of thinking.

More recently, however, the free flow of information and knowledge has created a much-needed return to quality for consumers, which is in part what has sparked the resurgence of classic menswear. With that, Harris Tweed has seen a rise in demand from around the world. This means the local farmers and weavers are seeing more jobs, better pay, and younger weavers choosing to continue and age-old tradition. And for us, the designers, it means an increased selection of weights, colors, and textures of these beautiful fabrics.

Filmmakers Nick David and Jack Flynn recently traveled to the islands of Lewis and Harris in Outer Hebrides of Scotland to document the resurgence of Harris Tweed, and the impact it’s having on the local community:

There are a few quotes in this video that were powerful and hit close to home, such as “We’ve gone back to Tweed being a stable employer. It employs alot of people in the community” and “It’s because of Harris Tweed we were able to move back to this fragile community where I am from”…

This is only one example of why purchasing quality goods is not only better for the consumer, who is investing in products that perform better and last longer, but also good for the local craftsmen who make fair wages, enrich their local communities, and have the privilege of continuing a tradition passed down for several generations.

Of course, given our Mission Statement to provide the highest quality garments and experience possible, it was necessary for us to offer some Harris Tweed fabrics in our collection. Below are a few of the authentic Harris Tweeds we offer – each of which is custom cut for our clients, and includes the official label of authenticity:

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Arctic Coast Harris Tweed

ARCTICCOASTTWEED

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Mid Grey Flannel Suit, Arctic Coast Tweed Topcoat (2)

Herringbone Harris Tweed

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Herringbone-Tweed-Mac,-Rust-Hopsack-Waistcoat,-Blue-Candy-Stripe-Broadcloth-Shirt(1) (3)

Houndstooth Harris Tweed

K&NHOUNDS

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Khaki & Navy Houndstooth Tweed 640 (3 of 9) (1)

Of all of our Harris Tweed fabrics, though, none capture the unique coloring and texture created by the old-school hand-weaving process better than these two:

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Rainbow Harris Tweed

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Ocean Coral Tweed

How It’s Made

For more on the actual process of making Harris Tweed, check out the video below from the official Harris Tweed Hebrides website, where you can also directly purchase cloth by the yard (which can be sent to our American tailor shop to make custom suits, jackets, or outerwear).

Contact us if you’re interested in sourcing your own fabric.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Yours in style,

Dan Trepanier

  • khordkutta

    Harris Tweed: The Thrift Store Comeup

  • Miguel

    Great learning article, I might have a tweed sport coat, I need to rock it this weekend.

  • Cheryl Lange

    Hi Dan,
    Working in the Marketing Dep’t. of Gladson, Ltd. (sister company to Huddersfield Fine Worsteds and providers of fine Harris Tweed from the Outer Hebrides), I always love to read through your site. Happened to come across this article on Harris Tweeds and noticed a typo above the section for Houndstooth. It says HOUDSTOOTH. The article itself is splendid!
    Kind regards,
    Cheryl Lange

  • Christopher

    Its articles like these that make this site so special and great. Looking forward to more articles, features and editorials that transcend every gentleman’s status in society. Whether you’re a millionaire, or junior analyst everyone can learn a thing about Harris tweed.

    Thanks for bringing this site back to its value-add to the internet, Dan and team.

    C

  • Sticklander

    Long time reader, first time posting. Thought I say how much I appreciate posts like this. Harris Tweed’s got a great history.
    Managed to find a great vintage blue Harris Tweed blazer which I gave to my Dad for Xmas. It’s got a similar Herringbone pattern as the navy AoS coat, which I’ve definitely got my eyes on. Is the material running low?

    – Kit

    • http://www.ArticlesofStyle.com Westley Dimagiba

      We’ve still got yardage left!

  • Dave Coakley

    I have a beautiful Marks & Spencer Harris Tweed jacket. The material is so warm and (very much like denim), I find that the more I wear it, the better it seems to fit and look on me.

    I’m very impressed with your philosophy of wanting to support good, sustainable employment. Real jobs with a real, natural product. It is worth paying more for quality, and there’s nothing like Harris Tweed!

  • NICKH

    This is what I like to see! Now do this 3-4 times a week!

  • tommyjohn_45

    I’m gonna go home and put my Harris Tweed suit on now…

  • TO

    Was the “Natural Tweed” suit you offered Harris? You ran out I’m imagining… Nice read here gents.

    • NICKH

      Don’t think so. I have the Natural Tweed suit and there is no Harris marking on the inside. I believe the Natural Tweed is a Donegal, but at this point I’m just guessing. It’s still a beautiful piece though.

      • TO

        Ok, cool that you have it! I’m sure it is, was asking because I was interested in getting one !

        • NICKH

          If they still have fabric, go for it! It’s a great piece, very versatile. Unlike some of the others fabrics on the site, I don’t think the natural tweed is especially rare. I’ve seen similar colored tweeds at Suit supply, Oliver Wicks and Permanent Style. If Aos is out, at least you have some backup options!