Business Formal

November 24th, 2015

There’s nothing quite like the power of a tailored suit in a charcoal grey cloth. It’s traditional, elegant and badass all at the same time.

Our new Charcoal Birdseye is an Italian wool with an incredibly rich texture that incorporates shades of grey, black, and white. Like our hidden placket shirt, this garment was designed with versatility and smart wardrobing in mind; both can cross-over from traditional business attire to formal evening wear. 

We advise our clients to build long-term wardrobes by investing in American-made garments that are cut to fit, designed to wear and built to last. Think better garments, not more garments. To illustrate this point, here’s the same suit, same shirt and same shoes – for a business meeting, a formal event, and a semi-casual evening.

Invest wisely, my friends.

    Shareholder Meeting


    Will is a difficult fit. He has a 42″ chest and a 32″ waist. That’s the kind of drop that only a salad diet and a two-a-day gym regimen can get you. It’s also the kind of drop that is very difficult for a tailor to nail.

    This level of fitting is impossible with self-measuring. An amateur salesman with a measuring tape is also going to have a very difficult time developing a pattern that has this level of curvature and shaping. A basted fitting is necessary to achieve these results. That’s why each of our clients begins with a round of basted fittings, overseen by myself and our team of experienced American pattern-makers and tailors.

    To learn more about our exclusive fitting process, check out our How It Works page and our article of Measuring vs. Fitting.


    Black Tie Gala


    In the absence of a proper tuxedo, a charcoal suit is a great alternative for “black tie”, especially if it’s double-breasted.

    Stay true to the traditional accoutrements of formal menswear: black silk bowtie (we prefer the diamond shape), hidden placket shirt, cufflinks, cummerbund, understated watch with crocodile band, etc.

    As long as it’s sharply tailored, nobody will bat an eye.


    • Midnight navy cashmere chesterfield (sample)
    • Hidden Placket Formal Shirt
    • Black silk diamond shape bowtie by General Knot & Co.
    • Black silk cummerbund by Brooks Brothers
    • Black Wholecut Shoes by Cobbler Union

    Sophisticated Casual


    When our granddads wore “casual attire”, it had nothing to do with ripped jeans or flashy sneakers. It meant losing the tie and taking off the jacket, but keeping all the class and swagger of a gentleman. Tailoring wasn’t just for the office, and it doesn’t have to be today either.

    Break-up your new favorite suit by wearing the waistcoat and trousers with an open collar for your next date or night out. The effect can be transformative.



    If a double-breasted jacket isn’t your flavor, we can always cut your personal garments as single-breasted, in which case I would recommend this fabric with peak lapels and besom (no flap) pockets.

    If you have any questions about the new AOS Tailor Shop or how we can serve your individual tailoring needs, feel free to contact us. We look forward to becoming your personal clothier.

    Thanks, as always, for reading.

    Yours in style,

    Dan Trepanier

    Shop Custom Menswear Made in America


    Take me to the Shop

    • Alan David

      Amazing pictures. I love seeing the comeback of a great custom suit. Bravo!

    • JoeFromTexas

      “Will is a difficult fit. He has a 42″ chest and a 32″ waist.” Pobrecito.

      Snark (read jealousy) aside, I would love to see how AOS Bespoke fits a wide range of body types, especially hard to fit types (the sweet spot for Bespoke). I know you’ve done some great articles in the past on different body types, but this one could focus on how AOS could address the different body type needs.

    • Banning Quinn Tibbetts

      So, when does Will audition to be the new 007?

    • MFB_Online

      This is beautiful. Shame I am based in the UK.

    • James Wong

      Love these photos, great article guys.

    • TheSartorialBully

      Will be placing my order for a Placket here very soon, definitely needed for new years.

    • TO

      Nice work. I didn’t realize the belt on the back on the camel coat, but I like it! There was one guy I went to University with (an athlete) that was known for having a 28″ waist and I would say a 40″ chest, didn’t look too much different than Will actually.

    • Malcolm

      Gawd, those topcoats!

    • scb0212

      Is that the Bradbury Building? Nice place to shoot (obviously, given the movies that have been filmed in it).

      • Tom

        Blade runner!

    • Tony

      That’s not charcoal. It’s mid-grey.

      • AdamE

        Agreed, although the charcoal birdseye may be referring to the flecks in the “eyes” being charcoal, with the rest of the garment being mid-grey… The fabric does have a neat effect though, I’ve got a Navy nail’s head (with black in the nail’s head) that can look like a navy suit, but can also look almost black, depending on lighting, if I wear it with a black silk bow tie for more formal events…

      • TO

        It’s darker than mid-grey, though not as dark as a, shall we say, ‘burnt’ dark charcoal (which I think is more boring/conservative). It’s comparable to a mid-navy instead of midnight navy. These are just the opinions based on my eye!


      Awesome pics as always Alex!

    • Jeanscuffed

      Bond…..Will Bond