The Linen Glenplaid Suit

May 1st, 2015

For the past six months or so, behind the scenes, the team and I have been developing a collection of seasonal unstructured tailoring that is designed to be versatile enough for the boardroom or a casual weekend. This linen/silk double-breasted suit in pale brown glenplaid is one of our first samples, so I’ve been giving it a rigorous test run.

It’s been very exciting to see this line taking shape, and we’re looking forward to sharing more with you soon. For now, here’s the advantages of a soft-tailored suits in seasonal, textured fabrics. Even in a double-breasted design it can be seamlessly dressed up or down, so you can #StayTailored no matter where you’re heading.

    All Business

    mensstyleblazer (4 of 20)

    In an “unstructured” jacket there is either no chest canvas at all, or a very lightweight chest canvas. This means the garment is going to be noticeably lighter in physical weight, and it also means that the chest area is more likely to bend wrinkle (since it’s not fastened to a stiff canvas to keep it laying flat). In a lightweight fabric like this linen/silk blend it makes a world of a difference, as the chest canvas would normally be the heaviest, stiffest and least breathable part of the jacket.

    Both the jacket and trouser are completely unlined as well, so you get the full breezy feel of natural linen.

    mensstyleblazer (7 of 20)mensstyleblazer (9 of 20)mensstyleblazer (10 of 20)

    • Shades by Ray-Ban
    • Linen Glenplaid Suit
    • Grey stripe contrast collar shirt by Ralph Lauren Black Label
    • Shantung Grenadine Tie by Shibumi
    • Cordovan “Jefferson” wingtips by Allen Edmonds

    Business Casual


    A suit jacket in a textured seasonal fabric is essentially a sport coat, which is an important part of the collection we’ve been working on. Building a smart wardrobe is all about versatility, interchangeability, and long-lasting design.

    The pale brown taupe-ish color of this fabric is a brilliant choice to expand a wardrobe. It’s one of those rare neutral colors that can be made to look warm or cool. It also works with just about any color scheme; blues, greys, khakis, browns, greens, burgundies, etc.




    Breezy Weekend


    If I could give you only one tip on how to get more out of your wardrobe, it would be to think about suits that you can wear as separates. You should be picking up a suit, a sport coat, and a go-to pant all at once. I’m not huge on the checkered pant as a separate, but this glenurquhart check is so subtle that it looks tasteful rather than flashy, in my opinion.

    On another note, I wear linen trousers almost every day in the Spring/Summer. I’m wearing a pair right now as I write this – cigar brown, with a light blue/white candy stripe shirt, also linen. Provided it’s tailored properly, a linen trouser is perfectly suitable for casual settings, as seen here with some layered linen knitwear (henley and cardigan).


    • Brown Felt hat by Stetson
    • Brown wool/linen cardigan by Club Monaco
    • Olive/Brown Henley by Guess x Marciano
    • Liven glenplaid trousers

    Thanks, as always, for reading.

    Yours in style,

    Dan Trepanier

    Shop Custom Menswear Made in America


    Take me to the Shop

    • Edwin

      Dan, will this suit be released for the spring/summer collection?

      • Dan Trepanier

        It’s possible… ;)

      • Dan Trepanier

        It’s possible… ;)

    • Jos

      Dan, so glad you gave a special mention to those brown trousers! Their versatility is exactly what I’m looking for and in a previous post of yours you exhibit this quality when paired with Angel’s pink tweed jacket (one of my favourite looks ever). Keep up the great content.

    • JoeFromTexas

      That first business casual look is killer. This is the kind of post that got me coming back to this site.

    • Juan Zara

      As I said on an previous post, I love the subtlety of the glen Urquhart check suit. It looks like plain, solid grey from afar, but up close… bam, glen check! Brilliant!

    • Tom

      woah, Dan’s gonna be the new Kanye

      • Dan Trepanier

        LOL I’ll take that as a compliment.

        • Miguel

          How long it take for the style guide…All Day


    • Miguel

      Great news Dan, guys, can’t wait, that DB suit looks on point.

      I’ve been listening to you for the past two years and I’ve been investing in linen pieces for spring and summer, just like you’ve been saying there’s nothing better than rocking some Linen (tailored of course) during the hot day of spring and summer.

      Love the second and third outfits.

      • Dan Trepanier


    • Herbert Morrison

      Brilliant. I’m sure this is just a taste of what’s to come. #waitonit

      • Dan Trepanier

        Juste un ‘ptit amuse-bouche

    • tommyjohn_45

      Can’t wait to see the ‘unveiling’ of the AOS collection. This teaser is a great start.

      • Dan Trepanier

        Thanks TJ45. Much more to come. Shooting for an official release this summer…

    • Mike

      Loving the 3rd outfit. For me, dressing up is easy. Dressing casually without looking too casual/sloppy is hard for me. Probably because I buy a lot of clothes with a dressier silhouette. I’m definitely gonna take inspiration from the 3rd outfit.

      Content superb as usual. Keep it up guys!

      • tommyjohn_45

        I tend to agree… Standing out (but not in a boisterous way) in a casual outfit is probably the most difficult style to achieve, IMO.

      • Dan Trepanier

        Love this feedback, super helpful. We will be steering our upcoming content in a more casual direction, just for guys like you, sir. Thanks for reading!

        • James Wong

          Glad to hear this, looking forwards to it!

    • OD

      In the “All business” pictures, Dan is wearing a vest/waistcoat underneath a double breasted jacket. Due to the covering nature of a double breasted jacket (compared to single breasted), it aesthetically defeats the purpose of a vest/waistcoat. It is a good post but I think a vest/waistcoat looks better with a single breasted jacket where the layering can be visualized. This is the reason most three piece suits have a single breasted jacket pattern.

      • TO

        But you can see it because the DB jacket is open…

        • pyrokeet

          it’s a “strong” look to have the DB jacket open though! not for the faint hearted.

      • AdamE

        That depends on button stance. I’ve seen the 3 piece DB to good effect, where the waistcoat has a fairly high button stance and the DB jacket has a low button stance… It also can make sense, even if it can’t be seen witht he jacket on, if you’re going to be spending long periods sitting, where you would open your jacket or remove it, but still want some coverage…

        • Dan Trepanier

          I think a waistcoat that is visible above the closed button stance on a DB jacket is a little much. It can look a little overly “wrapped” in my opinion. I prefer lower button stances on both the jacket and vest. Less cloth and more air especially in warmer climates. Cheers.

      • Dan Trepanier

        What about when you take your jacket off, or open it when seated? That’s when the waistcoat makes the difference, to keep your tailored look together. Cheers mate.

    • pyrokeet

      Thanks for the article Dan. Out of interest – why aren’t you huge on the separate checked trouser?

      • Dan Trepanier

        A plaid trouser as a “statement” seems a little cheesy to me most of the time. Of course it can be done well, too. I throw a lot of opinions around on the site, they’re not “rules” to dress by. Just thoughts and observation :)

    • TO

      Awesome!!! Amazing. A+. This is why I love this site so much. Fits so well with where the natural evolution of my personal style is heading. Excited to learn more about how this line came about. Maybe even see it in person in LA sometime?

      • Dan Trepanier

        Thanks, as always, for your support TO! We’re working on an LA showroom, opening this summer. I’ll have a whiskey waiting for you and the other AOS supporters.

    blog comments powered by Disqus

    Unexpected Layering, Pt. II

    What Is an “Unstructured” Suit?

    The New World Order: Quality, Transparency & Sustainability

    A Discourse on American Style feat. Bruce Boyer

    A Guide to Vintage Shopping