A Quick Guide to Menswear Proportions

October 14th, 2014

Tailoring is, literally, a game of inches. And it’s all about proportions.

Here’s a quick tip on pairing collars, ties and jackets together: they look best if they are the same width.

Here’s two examples.

Slim & Minimal

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A collar is measured from the neckband seam to the point along one side. A lapel is measured perpendicular to the roll line at it’s widest point. A tie is measured straight across at its widest point.

In this look they all measure exactly 2.5″, which is on the quite-narrow side for all three, but together the narrow lines complement each other. The slim and minimal proportions create a sharp look that portrays neatness and attention to detail. Finish it off with just a touch of pocket square and if you’re going with a tie bar keep it petite.

The narrow lapel and short collar is also great for a slimmer/smaller guy, like my man Dennis who studied under the king of shrunken-proportions Thom Browne and nails the minimalist look.

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Big & Bold

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What a difference an inch can make… Jokes aside, here the lapel, collar and tie are each 3.5″. That extra inch makes for a decidedly differently look; more luxurious, dandy, and expressive. Perhaps a little more in-your-face.

The longer power collar” sits higher up on the neck, making it great for taller guys. Not so good, however, for guys with short necks (or big muscular shoulders/traps). The collar should never get too close to the chin/jawline.

Personally, I like the lapel to cover roughly half the distance across the chest from the roll-line to the shoulder. Therefore, at my size (6’2″ 195 lbs) I prefer these slightly larger proportions. It feels more balanced.

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Stay tailored my friends. Just remember: it’s all about proportions, and an inch can make a difference.

Thanks, as always, for reading. If you have any questions about our online custom menswear, feel free to contact us anytime. We look forward to serving as your personal tailor and stylist. 

Yours in style,

Dan Trepanier

Shop Custom Menswear Made in America

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