Summer Weight Tailoring feat. Martel Francois

June 30th, 2014

New York City based stylist Martel Francois (of Korey Francois) knows a thing or two about staying sharply tailored, no matter the season. Hint: it’s all in the weight of the fabrics.

Here he highlights three go-to fabric options to stay tailored through the summer heat.

1. Linen


Linen is a sartorial man’s go-to summer cloth. Sometimes pure and wrinkly, sometimes blended and a little more smooth. We’ve already discussed the pros & cons of linen garments here.

And yes, you can wear linen on linen, as shown here with Martel’s coral jacket and micro-patterned trousers.

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2. High-Twist Wool

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Not all wools are created equal. Some are designed for warmth (like flannels and tweeds) and some are designed to stay cool and breezy.

“High Twist” wools begin in a lighter place, with sheep bred in warm climates like Australia. The wool is then spun extra finely and fabricated using a looser weave to permit the free flow of air through the fabric. A good tropical high-twist can feel as light as linen.

Of course, as with any Spring/Summer jacket, we recommend you forgo any type of lining (it’s the lining that traps heat and makes you sweat).

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3. Hopsack


Technically a hopsack can be made of any fabric. “Hopsack” simply refers to the loosely woven nature of the fabric; it looks like a very tiny basket-weave up close and wind flows right through it.

This is the same cloth that I used for my “MAB x Dan Trepanier” collection a few years ago – for those of you who scooped the grey hopsack. It’s still one of my favorite suits.

Martel did it in a very trim cut double-breasted, which looks tres chic with white denim and navy suede chukka boots.

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Stay tailored gentlemen, just get your fabrics right so you’re not a hot mess. Thanks for reading, and special thanks to Martel for participating!

Yours in style,

Articles of Style


Photography by Westley Dimagiba.

  • Jimmy_Johansen

    Besides looking unnaturally tight (which is neither comfortable nor flattering), why are those jacket sleeves so short?!? The sleeves on #1 and #3 are at LEAST 2 inches too short…. #menswear for sure…

    tailored should graze your natural silhouette

  • Max BornInTheNineties

    I really wish I could get my trousers tapered like this guy’s in look 1. But SuitSupply (where they’re from) basically refused to do it. After I put my foot down and insisted I wanted them tapered, slim, no-break. And after they said they “wouldn’t recommend that” three times, the sales reps finally gave in, but when I got them back, they had no tapering. SuitSupply has great prices and a great products, but their service is terrible. Then again, this is one specific SuitSupply location I’m referring to, perhaps others are better.

    I know this is off-topic, and I don’t want to detract from this great post, but has anyone else had similar (negative) experiences with SuitSupply staff? Specifically the Amsterdam crew near Museumplein?

  • Max BornInTheNineties

    Most inspiring style post on as far as I’m concerned. The Korey Francois website’s really cool too, I like the silhouettes they maintain throughout all their looks.

    Reading the comments here, can I just say one thing to all the #menswear critics out there: Personally, I really like slim clothes BECAUSE THEY ARE COMFORTABLE. I feel comfortable in clothes that hug me, and I feel very uncomfortable in clothes that drape around me. Comfort is subjective. So before you have a go at #menswear, realise that the fit we subscribe to is not an affectation, we really prefer the way it feels, not just the way it looks.

  • MaleStylePro

    Really like the pocket square in #3. Overall good looks and inspiration. Well done!

  • Gazman

    Tight, tight, tight. On a hot, steamy day, the last thing you’d want is an outfit that clings to you like cling-wrap. Tight might look good when you’re standing still and holding your breath (like photo #1) but not very practical when you’re going about your business. I mean, look at the tightness in the upper arms of the hopsack jacket!? Be hard pressed to clap hands with armholes that constrictive. Just my take. I know many love this type of fit, especially those on style forums.

  • TJ

    I’m glad you mentioned the lining. It can kill a lot of the breathability of even lightweight jackets. Unfortunately jackets that are a bit cheaper (i.e. in my price range) have the full lining. One would think that less lining would be cheaper but apparently they have to finish the seams if the lining is left out.
    I’ve seen some people mention that you can have a tailor remove some of the lining, does anybody have any experience with that?

  • itsJLev

    What up Martel!!!

  • Stuart

    The DB jacket looks awesome. Second time in two weeks that the six button style has been featured for summer wear. It’s definitely a look that is growing on me. Overall, a killer feature.

  • Terrified T

    Those armholes are tight. Literally. They look uncomfortable.

  • Nathan

    What brand is the white denim?

  • M.

    Too many novel accessories for me, and they certainly bring more heat and less comfort to those body parts.
    Also, the only look that looks slim and not so tight that it’s impossible to wear outside of a photo shoot is look #2, in my opinion.

    Otherwise, love the colors, the chukkas and the fabrics.

    I think less bold glasses would work with #1 as well.

  • Ali Naaseh

    One of the best pun titles in the last year hands down

  • Nicholas

    I really liked the shoes in all three looks; but wasn’t fond of how the tie displayed in look 2. It came across as one of those trendy “trying hard” things. Other than that I loved the looks.

  • cam

    I recently picked up a pair of linen fresco trousers from CSC (great sale going on btw) and a few pairs of Summer nailhead trousers in 8 oz wool from Howard Yount. I must say, all 3 are complete game changers when it comes to the heat. Up until this year, I simply wore my “4-season” wool trousers for work. If you don’t have some in your rotation, I highly recommend both CSC and Howard Yount. If you go with the Italian fit in Howard Yount, definetly size up one.

    • ET

      What is CSC

      • cam

        Carson Street Clothiers

  • Daniel

    A lot of #menswear going on (white jeans, stacked bracelets, DB, unbuttoned surgeon’s cuff, the tie twist and the smaller tie blade being longer than wide one, etc.) and the pants in looks one and three look uncomfortably tight, but that first blazer and the second tie are gorgeous.

    Very interesting that the high-twist wool comes from sheep in a warmer climate.

    • AFH

      Navy shoes and leather tassles are also #menswear. But at least he’s wearing socks……

      Where do they get these ties? I have Drakes ties as well as some other good brands and no way can I get the thin blade that long – I’m only 6′!

      I will defend white jeans to the death though. By which I mean I carry a toothbrush to scrub any stains out as soon as they appear. I have two pairs that were $5 each on clearance from Uniqlo. I considered getting them tapered a couple of years back, but I’m glad I didn’t – easy and breezy is the way for me in Summer.

  • Calvin

    Martel is THAT DUDE. All three looks are fresh!

  • John B

    Like the jackets, especially the lapels.

  • AJ

    Nice looks although not overly unique. Navy chukkas are incredible. It would be nice to know if Martel has eyes.

  • AFH

    It’s probably worth pointing out that Simon Crompton isn’t so sure unlined is the way to go for anything other than really high summer stuff i.e.times when only linen will do.

    • cam

      Could you elaborate on his reasoning? Simply curious…

      • JM

        Crompton’s reasoning is purely aesthetic. He says an unlined jacket can cause the fabric to stick to the clothes and the body underneath it, breaking up the lines a tailored garment creates. If you want your jackes lined, go quarter or half lined, and do it in bemberg, which is the best name brand version if Rayon.

        • AFH

          Quite so. It’s just a reminder that lining is not just there to cover up sloppy work. As DT also says elsewhere “A lining serves as a layer of protection – making a jacket more durable seems (sic? – as?) your body isn’t grinding against the raw seams.”