Natural Stretch: Designed for Comfort

March 6th, 2016

As a menswear blogger for the past six years, I’ve worn a lot of different suits. I’ve sampled hundreds of different brands and cuts during my half-decade-long hunt for the perfect tailored garment.

I always thought that if someone could make the classic suit more comfortable, then we could really influence more guys to embrace tailoring as part their day-to-day style again. This naturally led me to explore the world of “stretch fabrics”, which are rarely used in tailoring (especially quality tailoring) because of their short lifespans.

I’ve tried to make bespoke and made-to-measure suits out of “stretch fabrics” four different times. Every time the same thing would happen. It would start out great – very comfortable with a fluid range of motion – but the more I would wear it and put strain on the fabric, the sooner it would lose its “bounce back”. The knees, elbows, and seat would stretch out and eventually look “dumpy” and ill-fitting. This is the nature of fabrics that are blended with a synthetic stretch fiber like spandex, lycra or elastane; like any elastic, it eventually loses its ability to bounce back to its original shape.

That is why I’m so excited about our new “Estrato” fabric with natural stretch. “Estrato” is an innovative fabric weaving technique developed in Italy that incorporates two-way natural stretch into a pure worsted wool (not a “synthetic blend” that will eventually stretch-out). That’s right; this is 100% super 120s Australian merino wool, and the stretch factor is significant. 

We are very excited about this one because it is extremely comfortable to wear, breathes as well as any fabric we’ve sampled, and has excellent wrinkle recovery. Take it from me; you will not find a more comfortable suit.

    Designed to Move


    To prove the range of motion and flexibility of this innovative suit fabric, we’ve been doing all kinds of stunts in it. You can do full squats, get down into yoga positions, run a mile without any restriction, etc. Forget the “football throw” test, you could play an entire basketball game in this thing, and get buckets (video coming soon).

    Of course, it’s not really about doing sporting events in a tailored suit – it’s about being comfortable and not feeling restricted during your day-to-day grind. Even with little things like crossing your arms, reaching up to grab something, bender over to tie your shoes, sitting through a long day at the office…you will notice the movement is significant and feels much lighter on the body than a traditional suiting cloth.

    This garment, unstructured and unlined, is designed from the inside-out to move with you and have you feeling like you’re not wearing a suit at all.


    Comfort Meets Class


    Finally, a pair of classic trousers that are more comfortable than your favorite jeans or chinos. Once you go natural stretch, you will not go back!

    This is how an AOS gentleman does casual; tailored but laid back and comfortable.


    • White Panama Hat by Panama Hat Company
    • Sunglasses by Ray Ban
    • Striped polo shirt by John Smedley
    • Theirry II Loafers by Cobbler Union

    Blue Stretch Wool 2-Piece

    More info: The AOS Stretch Wool Suit


    Our “Estrato” natural stretch fabric is also available in more colors. Email us ( for fabric samples and to get started with your personal fittings. I look forward to showing you a new side of classic tailoring. 

    Thanks, as always, for reading.

    Yours in style,

    Dan Trepanier

    Shop Custom Menswear Made in America


    Take me to the Shop

    • Christopher

      Hey Dan,

      Great post. Quick question: why is it mentioned that the fabric comes from Italy? Unless its from a specific mill in Italy is it necessary to name the country where it’s from? Just a question because I’ve had garments from other parts of the world and unless I know what mill the fabric is coming from I wouldn’t necessarily equate entire countries with quality.

    • AdamE

      If you guys need a ware-tester… I’m more than happy to test one out running a 10km or on a long-cycle commute…

    • AFH

      The question in my mind is – how blue is this suit? It’s hard to tell on the web. Blue as in, a shade or two lighter than navy?

    • TheSartorialBully

      Very informative, I recently crafted a waistcoat using a stretch denim fabric. Should get some good time out of it though considering that is not the majority fabric on it, just the front pieces.

    • tommyjohn_45

      Incredible! I want to see Aaron Gordon rocking this during next years Dunk Comp!