Heavyweight Tailoring feat. Gabe Schulman
March 1st, 2012
I’ve been meaning to bring back my friend Gabe Schulman since his feature last year on corporate style.
Since then Gabe has taken strides in his career and is dressing bossier than ever. More specifically, in sharply-tailored, season-appropriate power suits.
We caught up with Gabe for a week to see how he’s been taking care of business; in hefty flannels, tweeds, and corduroys.
What better way to jump-start a Monday morning than a flannel chalkstripe double-breasted suit. No overcoat needed (especially this “winter”).
Gabe is a bigger guy, about 6’2″ with a 44-45″ chest. He proves that broader guys can pull off double breasted suits, even in a beefier cloth. The key is a slim fit through the body (and sleeve – which also accentuates the sides), a narrow panel overlap, and a slightly longer jacket to avoid boxiness.
It’s a good idea to pair a heavy cloth, like this 12oz flannel, with other substantial fabrics as Gabe does here with the textured shirt, beefy silk tie, and suede shoes.
- Double Breasted flannel chalkstripe suit by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- Shades by Marc Jacobs
- Shirt by Sharp Custom
- Tie by Robert Talbot
- Suede tassel loafers by Salvatore Ferragamo
How do you follow a head-turning classic on Monday? With another on Tuesday.
This time a super-soft grey donegal wool/cashmere three-piece, complete with banker club collar and sharp double monks.
I love how Gabe wears traditional menswear fabrics but amps up their look using more forward fit and styling.
With grey you can wear brown or black shoes – Gabe keeps it sharp in the city with sleek black monks.
- Shades by Giorgio Armani
- Black double monks shoes by Paul Stuart
- Tie by Brioni
- Grey donegal tweed 3-piece suit by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- Blue contrast collar shirt by Michael Andrews Bespoke
A little pattern and color play on Wednesday.
A subtle stripe in the suit mixed with a prominent stripe in the shirt.
A faint rust stripe in the tweed suit to go with the slightly-out-of-the-ordinary olive seamless lace-ups.
Gabe understands the advantages of going custom, but he doesn’t get measured for all of his suits.
The fact that he mixes high-end with low-end makes his style all the more intriguing.
This is an affordable off-the-rack number that he had nipped and tucked by his trusted tailor – where he takes most of his wardrobe.
Serious business meetings in the corporate world usually call for navy suits and white shirts.
That doesn’t mean you can’t add your own flair – with a double breasted cut and monk straps, for example.
Of course, it’s important to understand the culture within your particular place of business, as well as your role within it.
Gabe’s office doesn’t have “casual Friday” policy, but he makes his own with a more casual cut of suit, like this unlined, unstructured corduroy piece by the popular skate brand Supreme.
On the weekends you might spot an off-duty Gabe cruising around the Lower East Side on his skateboard – not wearing a suit, but still looking fresh casually.
Forest green corduroy with a touch of leopard print on the soles…f*ck yeah!
Thank, as always, for reading and special thanks to Gabe for participating.
Yours in style,
Photography by Alex Crawford.