Mild Climate Tailoring: Light Navy Hopsack

October 19th, 2015

The first week of the AOS Tailor Shop was a whirlwind. We’ve already accumulated hundreds of clients and almost sold-out a few of my favorite fabrics in the collection (like the Rust Hopsack, Ivy Glenplaid, and Camel Hair Topcoat). The outerwear was a big hit, proving how difficult it is for a guy to find a custom-made overcoat that is high quality and well designed.

One of the most popular requests we received in our first week was for more lightweight fabric options. We heard from several guys on the West Coast and in the South who, due to their warm climates year-round, simply can’t wear flannels and tweeds. Well, gentlemen, this new addition to the collection is for you.

The light navy hopsack is a beautiful wool/silk/linen fabric imported from Italy. The high-twist of the yarn combined with the loose texture of the weave make it a very lightweight and breathable cloth. A soft breeze passes right through this thing. It’s perfect for warm weather occasions such as beach weddings, tropical evenings, or summer business meetings.

Here our Director of Operations (and in-house male model) Will Howe takes our latest fabric for a spin around West Hollywood.


    A textured hopsack fabric makes for a perfect lightweight sport coat. If you’re thinking about updating your stodgy navy blazer to something with a little more sex appeal, we’ve got you covered.

    All of our jackets are unpadded with natural soft shoulders, making them a perfect match for a suave “casually tailored” look, like this linen henley + rust hopsack trouser combo.



    The best part about investing in a bespoke 3-piece suit: adding a dozen outfit combinations to your wardrobe. For example, lose the jacket and go with the waistcoat and trousers for a “business casual” look that is simple, refined and unexpected.

    Having bespoke garments that are cut to properly fit your body type makes this type of look (which relies heavily on quality tailoring) much easier and more powerful. Garments that are cut to flatter your body shape can make a world of difference in your overall appearance. This is the essence of bespoke tailoring; using cloth to improve the visual aesthetic of your unique shape and proportions.



    Of course, our lightweight fabrics are meant to be mixed and matched. For example, the Light Navy Hopsack Jacket is a perfect compliment to the Silk Tweed Houndstooth Waistcoat and the Dark Chocolate Trousers.

    I should say one more thing about the Light Navy Hopsack fabric. Like a few others in the collection, this one is extremely limited in quantity. We only have enough of this cloth to make about 10 suits. Once they’re sold, this fabric is not coming back. Consider this one 1/10.


    Make sure to check out all of the lightweight options in our F/W collection: Rust Hopsack, Dark Chocolate, Silk Tweed Houndstooth, and Graphite Nailhead. Keep in mind we can make any jacket in a Double-Breasted or Single-Breasted model, it’s your choice, it’s your bespoke suit. Looking forward to your fittings.

    Thanks, as always, for reading.

    Yours in style,

    Dan Trepanier

    Photography by Alex Crawford. Styling by Dan Trepanier. Modeling by Will Howe. 

    • Big Eddie

      Why did you go with such narrow lapels on the hopsack navy? That doesn’t really seem in tune with the site?

      • TO

        Just my opinion, but looks as though they are the same as the rest of the collection, methinks approx 3″ or so…

    • TO

      You should really consider adding tasteful, sophisticated accessories to the shop at some point, like the ones we’ve come to expect in the pages of AoS. Like the scarf in this article for example- I would likely think of adding a touch like that to a waistcoat+trouser look, but lack a nice enough seasonal option to do so! In my experience shopping vintage/second hand, mostly everything you find is not refined or sophisticated enough for such a move, and high end designer versions are usually more over-the-top with crazy colours/patterns that are hard to incorporate in a restrained look!

      As a side note, what a nice looking fabric and hue of blue. It must be a really fine-guage hopsack b/c it’s not visible from these pictures.

    • SJ

      Hopsack is awesome, I totally agree, but I’ve got an off-topic question. How do I get Will’s hair, without, you know, scalping him? It looks great, and it’s been something I’ve wanted to achieve for quite some time.

      • Dan Trepanier

        Getting Will to chime in here…

      • Will

        Hey SJ – Firstly, thanks for considering alternatives to scalping, I think that’ll work out better for both of us. Re: the hair; about a year and a half ago I was traveling with my little brothers who told me that they’d both stopped washing their hair with shampoo – instead they’d switched to just a quick rinse when in the shower. I decided I’d give it a try and haven’t gone back since. I find that my hair is now easier to style and less dried-out on a daily basis. Not much science here – for me it is more a matter of convenience than anything else (one less thing to take care of). I’m sure this is an area where different approaches work better for different people, but those are my two cents – make of them what you will!

    • Ryan

      Quick question on the vests – what do the backs look like? Are you using the same fabric as the front or going the silk route?

      • Dan Trepanier

        Hey Ryan. The rear of the waistcoats is made using a lining fabric, typically a bemberg or silk that matches or subtly complements the main fabric, depending on the style chosen. This keeps the garment lighter in weight and allows the metal rear-adjuster “cinch” to slide more easily. Cheers.

    • A. Lehman

      Hate to be the squeaky wheel, but it seems like every article since the launch of the new shop has been an advertisement for your products. Any chance of getting back to editorials? Missing the strong content!

      • Dan Trepanier

        Plenty of great content coming up. Cheers.

        • Ryan

          Helpful thanks. I seem to remember an article on here in the last 2-3 years featuring vests where the fabric on the back matched the front. I’ve cited it multiple times in discussions with the guys at SuitSupply and other shops and no one has ever seen it executed elsewhere. Thought it might be a unique creation!

          • Dan Trepanier

            A self-backed vest is actually very traditional. I have a number of them from different bespoke shops collected over the years. The only real downside, in my opinion, is that the rear cinch doesn’t work as well, as on a lining fabric it “slips and grips” very easily…on wools and linens it has a tendency to get caught…