Tailor-Made Swagger feat. Adam Lampell

November 17th, 2011

The best part about working at a bespoke men’s shop – other than starting at noon, watching the game and sharing drinks with clients at the bar all day  – is the in-house discount, of course.

Here our friend Adam gives us a taste of his Fall/Winter lineup of badass, one-of-a-kind, swagger-induced suits.

    1. Brown Flannel Glenplaid

    “Every guy should be experimenting with brown. If you’re concerned with trying out a new suit color, look for one that has a subtle hue that can pass as almost grey.

    I needed a couple of suits that were warm enough for the harsh NYC winter, but I didn’t want bulky fabrics. If I worked outside all day, a 16oz fabric is something that I might be interested in. But I don’t, so I like flannels around 9oz.”

    Bonus Tip: A light blue shirt pulls out the stripe in the glenplaid.

    Bonus Tip II: There are ties for all seasons, like this flannel chalkstripe (cut from suiting cloth) for Fall/Winter.

    Bonus Tip III: For smaller guys, sleeve length and trouser length are very important. Keeping them on the shorter side will help elongate the physique.

      2. Bordeaux Cord

      “I have to be honest, the red corduroy suit (and this particular look) was inspired by Boardwalk Empire, one of my favorite shows on tv right now… It’s a deep red – call it merlot – so it comes off as very regal looking.

      More often I wear this as seperates. The jacket is great with jeans or as a alternative to a dinner jacket, and the trousers work with just about anything – chunky sweaters, simple shirt & tie, darker subtle jackets…

      Pairing it with shoes is challenging but fun — it gets me thinking outside the box every time I put it on… It’s also warm enough to pass as outerwear for a part of the season.

      I basically decided it was time for some swag with my suit game. That’s pretty much it.”

      Bonus Tip: If you’re going custom corduroy, make sure the tailor cuts the fabric so it “brushes” upward, not downward. The color looks more consistent and rich this way.

      Bonus Tip II: A deep saturated wine color is more versatile than you might think. Like Adam said, think of them as separates…but every once in a while you can set it off together.

      Bonus Tip III: Adam knows the importance of a great shoe to go along with a great suit. Take a close look…his post is mens shoe porn.

      Bonus Tip V: Stretch cottons (those with a small blend of lycra or another substitute) are great for a very slim fit, comfort and movement. Keep in mind though, like any other elastic, over time the fabric eventually looses its “bounce back” and therefore shape. This means you may need to have it tailored again down the road.

      Bonus Tip VI: Keep in mind that Adam works in the clothing industry, his job is to showcase custom clothing. He also has balls and rocks it with confidence. If you’re going to try a suit of non-traditional color, you can tone it down with a light solid shirt, dark simple tie, minimal accessories and classic shoes.

      Bonus Tip VII: Collar pin and tie bar? Typically I would say too much, but in a look purposely inspired by Boardwalk Empire, it works perfectly.

      3. Nightlife Windowpane

      Not all suits are made for a 9-5. In fact, more and more men are having custom made suits for non-work wear.

      Not to mention, for some people nightlife is part of the office. Michael Andrews bespoke clothes a number of nightclub owners, managers and employees who want to look sharp and appropriate, while staying cool and masking spills.

      “DB peak-lapel vest inspired again by Boardwalk Empire… I can wear this suit with a coporate-friendly shirt and tie, but its main function is after sundown… Again, often as separates – blazer with black jeans, pants with black leather jacket, etc.”

      Bonus Tip: Black shirts are for night. Only.

      Bonus Tip II: If the shirt is black, the buttons should be black as well – along with the leathers.

      Bonus Tip III: If the fabric has black in it the buttons – which should be genuine horn – should be black.

      Bonus Tip IV: You can have a little fun with the jacket lining, but keep it tasteful and complimentary to the fabric.

      Thanks for reading and special thanks to Adam for participating!

      Yours in style,

      Dan Trepanier


      Photography by Alex Crawford.

      • Gazman

        Hi Adam
        I noticed you aren’t shy to wear suits with patterns – and also DBs. I’ve read bloggers say short men should not wear patterned suits, and avoid double-breasts. Obviously there is no rule of thumb. I’m short (5’5″) and I keep reading conflicting advice. It’s hard to know what to believe.

      • garydirteen

        well dennis here is there contact details, they have a wealth of knowledge ,say gary dirteen told you to ring

      • Brown

        Most of stuffs in this guy’s closet are suits, aren’t they?
        It would be better appreciated if there are some more tips for casual short guy dressing!
        Just to say :)

      • This guy

        Why ticket pockets? As a short guy, it seems counterintuitive to get a great fitting suit and then drawing attention to your short stature with a ticket pocket nearly halfway up your torso.

      • petetheterror


      • SFD

        Next level.

      • JAMES

        I can’t wait to buy that legendary brown double breasted brown suit!

      • Anonymous

        I can’t wait till you sell that legendary brown double breasted suit!

      • Ryan

        Looks 2 and 5. KILLLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!

      • NY

        Good post, DT. I like the photography too. I have to say—more as a slight to my current financial system then your blog—it is totally demoralizing to read these posts sometimes. There’s no way this dude is wearing any less than $10,000 worth of clothes right now. I mean, I don’t know what kind of world you guys live in. It is borderline obscene.

        • http://www.thestyleblogger.com SB

          I understand where you are coming from. It’s a issue I should certainly address.

          We ball pretty hard, but this is our job. As clothing/style “connoisseurs” of sorts, we get excited by the best of the best. Think of it this way; an automotive expert likely doesn’t drive a Honda (or write about them).

          With that said, however, this doesn’t mean you need to break the bank to look good. We say this all the time, and it’s part of the reason I try to feature other stylish friends who aren’t necessarily tied to the clothing industry.

          Our goal at the end of the day is to inspire and get guys thinking outside of the box – the box that suffocates self expression and personal style.

          Stay true to yourself, and work around your budget.


          • cam

            “Borderline obscene” – is this guy serious??!!

            the last time i checked, this is the United States of America – the land of the free. freedom to do and say what dan wants to say on his blog and you have the freedom NOT to read/follow it. there’s always someone out there who wants to hate on what he can’t have. dan has NEVER had any ego about the clothing he wears and i’m not sure why he feels the need to defend and/or explain this to people on and ongoing basis. nuff said

            • NY

              Cool your jets, Cam. I meant borderline obscene in a complimentary fashion, as in, ‘yo, yo, yo, that wardrobe is so sick it’s borderline obscene.’ Keep the ‘rah rah rah America’ to yourself. I don’t, and have never had, any problem with Dan’s ego, which is like the porridge that Goldilocks ate.

              • SNY

                Cam, I think you should look past the fact that everyone is an enemy of yours. You seem to attack him like he just hurt you physically. I actuall agree with him, and am also unable to purchase such an expensive set of clothes. I like to take things that can work with my bank and spice it up to look as good as possible. We do not all have the means to buy such expensive clothes and he was just making a valid point that might actually be true with many people.

      • SLP

        In the second photo of the burgundy suit, I see that he has buttoned the bottom button of the suit, as opposed to the top. Any reason for that?

        • Daniel

          He didn’t, it’s a 3/2 lapel roll. There are three buttons on the jacket, but the lapel rolls to the second, making the topmost button only decorative.

      • Owen

        Dan that shot with you on the background is pure EVIL! (in a good way).
        Perfect fit on Adam’s suits. great job sir!

      • Every Man’s Closet

        Ooh, the after hours suit is to die for! So sexy. Its nice to see someone being creative with their custom. I’ve worked in custom tailoring for years and it seems that a lot of times the custom client can be far more conservative. Which is a tragedy, because you can do things like this! Bravo.

      • TL

        Why do these suites look too tight on this guy?
        I normally like all the styles you put together but not this time. The guys knees are breaking thru the pants. All the pants looke too tight for him like jeans.
        The tight pants even make his shoes look too big like flippers.

        Sorry to be so negative but this look is jus wrong by the tailoring.

        • http://www.thestyleblogger.com SB

          That’s how Adam likes them. It’s custom cut to his personal preferences. Nothing more to it.

          Thanks for reading,

      • Now-wants-a-cord-suit-guy

        Dan please tell me you’re designing a cord suit for your fall collection. I’v never seen anyone in the “real world” wear one before so the uniqueness of it makes it even sharper.

        PS are you wearing sneakers in your sly DB background appearance?

      • sky7i

        Adam — well done, man! These are all very sharp. Although I have to admit I like the approachability and smoothness of your casual outfits even more.

        Is it just me imagining things, or is there a Pet Shop Boys song playing in the background in photo 4.2? :-)

      • Anonymous

        LOVE IT

      • Robert Charles

        That’s one mean mother effing suit game right there. This is the coldest suiting post i have seen in a long time. well played.


      • RH

        The clothes are killer for the looks he’s after. This is more observation than criticism but similar to your other buddy, these guys hardly smile. To me, look 3 is the most believable b/c he’s smiling and looks the most relaxed. While the clothes are great in the others, he looks stiff and the confidence isn’t as believable. Tie pins, tie bars, cuff links, pocket squares, etc. You can have all the accessories you want but the best will always be a smile.

        • Chris

          It’s true that these guys don’t smile in some photos. Researchers have found that people generally looked more attractive when they smiled.

          So I think they do it because they’re trying to remove the added “confidence” projected from a smile, in order to focus on the techniques of their styles.(colors,layering, etc.)

      • TO

        Hey Adam, the retro details you have work in here in so many instances are so great and look refreshingly modern! Love the DB vests. What a suit line-up…Also, the merlot corduroy suit is absolutely killer!

        Sean, in regards to your suggestion, I hear ya but I don’t think you necessarily have to always see the vest too much when the jacket is closed. I find Adam’s jacket stance is already fairly low in these instances and to go with a high vest would also be a “Boardwalk Empire” inspiration, but I think in the case of shorter guys, you want to try to have a low stance on both the jacket and vest- that way you keep that elongated effect on the torso. That being said, I would love to see someone, my guess a taller gent, pull off a vest with a higher stance- as you rarely that anymore:)

        Great feature SB

      • Doug

        Nice shots and looks, but wearing the American flag as an accessory is actually disrespectful.

        From the US Flag Code:
        The flag should never be used as wearing apparel, bedding, or drapery. It should never be festooned, drawn back, nor up, in folds, but always allowed to fall free. Bunting of blue, white, and red, always arranged with the blue above, the white in the middle, and the red below, should be used for covering a speaker’s desk, draping the front of the platform, and for decoration in general.

        • Rob

          Don’t want to start a whole debate, but what about bandanas, t-shirts, shirts, pants, boxer shorts, etc. etc. used as “wearing apparel” ??? …

      • Sean

        Looks great. On the 3-pieces, I’d raise the button stance on the vests or lower it on the jackets, though – you can barely tell they’re 3-piece suits when buttoned.

        • CAS

          Yes but the low button stance elongates the torso and thus lengthens him out. Remember the “Tips for shorter guys post” he was originally featured in?

          • CAS

            Oops.. I see TO already beat me to it. Oh well.. this reinforces that point.

            Btw, this post is BOSS. I see Adam channeling Tom Ford in looks 2 and 5.

      • kool-aid

        Nice touch on this guy.. officially “LIKE” this episode!

      • Vidal

        Another awesome post! I’ve been meening to grab a cord sport coat, but maybe now I’ll make it a full suit. In that regard, what wale is the merlot one Adam wears here, and what wales would be considered appropriate for suiting material?
        Thanks again, and as always, keep up the great and informative work!

      • JB

        this guy straight up kills it.

      • Emanuel Iuhas

        The last outfit is awesome…I usually don’t like the plaid pants but this full-plaid outfit is awesome!
        Thank you for inspiring!

      • Daniel

        Beautiful suits, especially looks 3 and 4.

      • Jeff

        Great post. I’m not a fan of double breasted vests, but to each his own. That Nucky Thompson cord suit is awesome. Keep up the great work, and congrats on the new gig Adam.

      • Zachary Gray

        wow this guy is #dipped

      • shawn

        Really interesting point about skin/hair contrast. Should someone with dark brown skin and dark brown hair avoid a brown suit?

        • CAS

          You can pull it off with a high contrast in shirt/tie combo. i.e. white shirt/brown tie in this case