Tailor-Made Swagger feat. Adam Lampell
November 17th, 2011
The best part about working at a bespoke men’s shop – other than starting at noon, watching the game and sharing drinks with clients at the bar all day – is the in-house discount, of course.
Here our friend Adam gives us a taste of his Fall/Winter lineup of badass, one-of-a-kind, swagger-induced suits.
1. Brown Flannel Glenplaid
“Every guy should be experimenting with brown. If you’re concerned with trying out a new suit color, look for one that has a subtle hue that can pass as almost grey.
I needed a couple of suits that were warm enough for the harsh NYC winter, but I didn’t want bulky fabrics. If I worked outside all day, a 16oz fabric is something that I might be interested in. But I don’t, so I like flannels around 9oz.”
Bonus Tip: A light blue shirt pulls out the stripe in the glenplaid.
Bonus Tip II: There are ties for all seasons, like this flannel chalkstripe (cut from suiting cloth) for Fall/Winter.
Bonus Tip III: For smaller guys, sleeve length and trouser length are very important. Keeping them on the shorter side will help elongate the physique.
2. Bordeaux Cord
“I have to be honest, the red corduroy suit (and this particular look) was inspired by Boardwalk Empire, one of my favorite shows on tv right now… It’s a deep red – call it merlot – so it comes off as very regal looking.
More often I wear this as seperates. The jacket is great with jeans or as a alternative to a dinner jacket, and the trousers work with just about anything – chunky sweaters, simple shirt & tie, darker subtle jackets…
Pairing it with shoes is challenging but fun — it gets me thinking outside the box every time I put it on… It’s also warm enough to pass as outerwear for a part of the season.
I basically decided it was time for some swag with my suit game. That’s pretty much it.”
Bonus Tip: If you’re going custom corduroy, make sure the tailor cuts the fabric so it “brushes” upward, not downward. The color looks more consistent and rich this way.
Bonus Tip II: A deep saturated wine color is more versatile than you might think. Like Adam said, think of them as separates…but every once in a while you can set it off together.
Bonus Tip III: Adam knows the importance of a great shoe to go along with a great suit. Take a close look…his post is mens shoe porn.
Bonus Tip V: Stretch cottons (those with a small blend of lycra or another substitute) are great for a very slim fit, comfort and movement. Keep in mind though, like any other elastic, over time the fabric eventually looses its “bounce back” and therefore shape. This means you may need to have it tailored again down the road.
Bonus Tip VI: Keep in mind that Adam works in the clothing industry, his job is to showcase custom clothing. He also has balls and rocks it with confidence. If you’re going to try a suit of non-traditional color, you can tone it down with a light solid shirt, dark simple tie, minimal accessories and classic shoes.
Bonus Tip VII: Collar pin and tie bar? Typically I would say too much, but in a look purposely inspired by Boardwalk Empire, it works perfectly.
3. Nightlife Windowpane
Not all suits are made for a 9-5. In fact, more and more men are having custom made suits for non-work wear.
Not to mention, for some people nightlife is part of the office. Michael Andrews bespoke clothes a number of nightclub owners, managers and employees who want to look sharp and appropriate, while staying cool and masking spills.
“DB peak-lapel vest inspired again by Boardwalk Empire… I can wear this suit with a coporate-friendly shirt and tie, but its main function is after sundown… Again, often as separates – blazer with black jeans, pants with black leather jacket, etc.”
Bonus Tip: Black shirts are for night. Only.
Bonus Tip II: If the shirt is black, the buttons should be black as well – along with the leathers.
Bonus Tip III: If the fabric has black in it the buttons – which should be genuine horn – should be black.
Bonus Tip IV: You can have a little fun with the jacket lining, but keep it tasteful and complimentary to the fabric.
Thanks for reading and special thanks to Adam for participating!
Yours in style,
Photography by Alex Crawford.