A Guide to Lapel Styles

January 16th, 2015

There was a time, more than a hundred years ago, when men’s coats fastened straight up the front to the neck. When indoors or in hot weather, men would unfasten the upper buttons of their coats and fold-over the front panels at an angle. This was the origin of the jacket lapel, which has seen many changes in shape, size, and proportion over the years but has remained a standard in menswear. In fact, modern lapels are largely identical in form to their 1930s counterparts.

From a pattern-making and tailoring perspective, the lapels are created by sewing together two layers of the jacket’s front panel and connecting them to the collar piece which wraps around the neck. On a well-made jacket there is often a piece of canvas gently hand-sewn between the two panels, which gives the jacket additional structure and dimension. Some historians of dress such as Bernard Rudofsky have ridiculed the evolution of jacket lapels into “vastly unnecessary flaps” and “decorative rudiments”, while others have celebrated the transformation of lapels into “fetishes” as part and parcel of fashion as expression.

Lapels typically have a buttonhole on the left, which is intended to hold a boutonnière, a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. To hold the flower properly, a loop is fixed to the back of the lapel. For symmetry, double-breasted suits often have a button hole on each lapel.

Today there are three basic lapel shapes, although they come in a variety of widths and each designer has their own subtle take in terms of angles and lines. The lapel style is perhaps the most important (and eye-catching) element of a jacket and ultimately determines what it should be used for, along with the fabric, fit, button closure, etc.

Here’s a quick breakdown of your options.

The Notch Lapel

MensstylejacketblazerLapels (3 of 3)

The “notch” is the “sideways V” shape (<) between the top of the bottom of the collar and the top of the lapel. This is easily the most common lapel type (it’s much simpler and cheaper to cut than a peak) and has long been the standard on single-breasted suit jackets and sport coats. Old school jackets (think 80’s Armani) had wide notches and low gorge lines (the sewing line that connects the lapel to the collar). As trends have swung and lapels have narrowed we’ve also seen much smaller notches, sometimes called “fishmouth”. 

If you’re only going to own one suit, make it a notch lapel in a medium width (roughly 3-3.5”). It’s the most timeless and versatile style you can buy and appropriate for everything from job interviews and your first day at work to weddings and high-end restaurants. If you’re choosing a lapel style on a custom piece, consider the fabric and style of the jacket. If it’s an unstructured jacket in a fabric that leans casual (like cotton or linen) it’s probably best suited for a notch.

The Peak Lapel

MensstylejacketblazerLapels (2 of 3)

So called because of the pointed tips, the peak lapel can be traced back to the frock coats of Louis XIV’s reign in the sixteenth century. Historians believe they came about simply out of a necessity to keep the neck warm and dry in inclement weather (by popping them up for coverage). Due to their historical association with morning coats and tailcoats, the peak lapel is by nature a more formal style. For this reason, they have become the standard on double-breasted jackets and tuxedos. Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, however, the peak lapel found its way onto many single-breasted suits and dinner jackets.

The peak lapel should be reserved for more formal, structured jackets in sharp fabrics like worsted wools and mohairs. They can give the appearance of broader shoulders and increased height – making them perfect for the power businessman, the shorter gent, and those carrying a few extra pounds who desire a lengthening effect. Ideally the lapel should be in proportion to the width of the wearer, covering roughly half the distance from the roll line to the shoulder seam. As we’ve mentioned, flattering the body with proper tailoring is all about proportions.

The Shawl Collar

MensstylejacketblazerLapels (1 of 3)

The shawl collar, which is one continuous piece all the way around the neck, is becoming more and more popular with tailored gents looking for a suave cut. This is probably due to its promiscuous past, given that it was the lapel of choice for gentlemen’s clubs where the smoking jacket was the required uniform. It’s a swanky and decadent look, best reserved for evening wear and dinner jackets with only one button (although some designers have begun using them with more traditional suiting fabrics).

Although it’s one smooth piece of cloth, there are still plenty of considerations in terms of size and shape. The jacket pictured above, for example, has a squared-off bottom and actually gets slightly wider toward the bottom, as opposed to the traditional shawl which gets narrowest at the button. Lastly, in my opinion, a shawl collar should be reserved for bowties, not straight ties. 

I hope this was helpful as a reference.

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Yours in style,

Dan Trepanier

Photography by Alex Crawford

  • http://www.alphapeople.org/ Julien

    I’m glad my french people were included in this article for “creating” the peak lapel. (and I think I’m in love with that DB jacket…)

    Great post, dan!

  • Brent

    Would have been nice to hear more about the history of each lapel through the years. Like 1970’s lapels!

  • TO

    Interesting that the historical indications are that the peak collar was meant to be popped but only a few years ago did AoS bring this back as a style move! That’s gotta be one of the all-time longest fashion cycles:)

  • JBells

    I love whenever you integrate history on how a garment came to be. The origin of the lapel is a great story

  • KD

    Excellent post, Dan. Regarding the shawl lapel, what width is considered the most timeless? It may be due to current trends still leaning towards narrow lapels, but most shawl tuxedo’s appear slimmer than the classic 3″-3.5″ notch lapel.

    • AdamE

      Great piece. In all cases, lapel width should be in alignment with the
      width of the torso, and the width of the tie that you wear with it. With
      Shawl collar dinner jackets, the width should be proportional to the
      width of the bow-tie (which of course should be cut from the same fabric
      as the lapels are made from… and should always be self-tie…). Personally, I favour slimmer ties of
      all sorts (it’s a tie, not a lobster bib…), so regardless of lapel style, I usually opt for something in
      the 2.5-2.75″ ballpark. In terms of the 50% rule for peaks, that falls slightly on the narrow end (on me the the roll line to shoulder seam measurement is roughly 6″, so I’m not far off though).
      I would be inclined to agree that most shawl collar tuxes I see these days usually fall in the 2.5-3″ lapel width. Although, I’m still surprised at how few of the tuxes I see that go with the shawl lapels, because for me, I find it to be the most elegant look.

      • TO

        I agree that the best lapel for tuxes/dinner is shawl. However this is not tradition! Peak of course was on the original tuxedo.

        • AdamE

          I know peak is the original, but there’s just something about the shawl. The perfect tux as far as I’m concerned is a textured midnight blue, with black shawl lapel.
          I’m still horrified by the rental monstrosity that I wore for my wedding, since that was just before I started to step up my game (largely motivated by that monstrosity and a job change). Seeing as my wife is an event planner with a heavy wedding focus, I try to impart knowledge onto all of the grooms they book not to rent, and to go custom… (then give them the card of my MTM guy…)

          • TO

            I was gonna ask you, you mentioned it another time recently, where do you go in Ottawa for MTM?

            • AdamE

              SurMesur, they started in Quebec city, they have shops in MTL, QC, TO and Ott. They’re awesome.

              • TO

                Oh ok I have seen them before in TO. I am in the market for some MTM, can we start a discussion perhaps on your experience w/ them? If you want to email me, timohearn@gmail.com.

    • http://ledebonnaire.tumblr.com/ Juan Zara

      As Adam already said, it’s all about proportions, so I would recommend going for about 3″-3.5″ only if you have a 40″ chest or larger (that means size 38/48EU). For a size 36/46EU or smaller, 2.75″ lapels and ties would probably look best.
      In any case, though, shawl lapels have historically always been slimmer than notches and peaks, so 2.5″-2.75″ would be fine for a size 38 to 42, 2.5″ for a 34-36, etc.

      • TO

        Quite wide shawl collars in the pic Juan! And tiny bows haha. Those characters could use a bit of your advice

        • http://ledebonnaire.tumblr.com/ Juan Zara

          Haha, crap, I knew this was a bad example because everyone immediately notices the wide shawl on the left (which I think is somewhat justified by the fact that it’s a double breasted jacket), but I think the white dinner jacket (the most elegant piece of clothing a man can own, even more so than a traditional black or midnight navy tux, in my opinion) on the right is actually pretty spot-on.

          Considering the leg opening to be about 8.5″ (typical for the 30s), one can assume the width of the lapel is about 3″-3.25″, which is quite alright for a tall guy like the blond gentleman in the picture.

          From what I gathered from hundreds of Apparel Arts and Esquire illustrations, though, bows were typically this slim in the 30s and 40s, and didn’t get much wider until the late 60s, alongside pretty much everything else (lapels, ties, trouser openings, etc.)

  • Max BornInTheNineties