1 Piece/3 Ways: The Tweed Trouser

December 3rd, 2014

A good tweed trouser can really open up your Fall/Winter wardrobe. Wear them with a suit, with a separate blazer, with a chunky sweater, even with a leather bomber or varsity jacket.

Here’s one of my favorite pairs (a forest green donegal) to get you thinking.

    Business Mode


    Personally, during the colder months I prefer wearing tweed trousers to jeans. Not only are they more comfortable (since they don’t stretch and sag off the waist or squeeze the thighs/calves) but the extra hip room created by the pleats makes a world of difference when it comes to using the pockets.

    So many of my favorite jeans seem to be made for guys with slim thighs, or tiny hands. Either way, I’m tired of struggling to pull out my phone or wallet. A gentleman’s clothes should be functional and practical above all else.


    The whole idea of pleats being “in” or “out” of fashion is kind of silly, in my opinion. That isn’t, or shouldn’t be, what menswear is about.

    A pleat is a functional design element. It allows for the expansion of cloth in one specific area, relative to another specific area. It’s a range of motion thing, which is why you often seem them on the upper backs of shirts. Trouser pleats picked up a bad reputation because we all began associating them with ill-fitting (mainly oversized) pants. A lot of 90’s “business casual” khakis come to mind. But the truth is, a well-cut trouser with front pleats can be a very flattering and elegant look. When properly cut, pleated trousers give an air of maturity, perhaps even sophistication.


    We really can’t say enough about a good dress boot.


    Countryside Casual


    Looking to upgrade your casualwear to something a little more smart and mature?

    Start by introducing some tailored pieces into your weekend wardrobe, like a waistcoat or pleated trouser. That’s the beauty of tailored garments cut from seasonal fabrics. Since they serve a functional purpose it’s easier to pair them with casual items, like a band collar shirt, a wool cardigan and some roughed-up boots.


    Fall is all about textures. Dimensional cloth can give your outfit a life of its own.

    Here’s a “basket weaved” wool hopsack waistcoat with a slight mohair blend (hence the sheen), a wool/cashmere cardigan in a sort of classic glendplaid knit, and of of course, the donegal tweed trousers with specs of khaki, brown and burnt orange.


    What do you know about “flesh-out” leather?

    These boots by Wolverine are cut from genuine Horween leather, but it’s inside out. This method, developed in the 1900s, puts the leather grain against the foot and the napped side out, resulting in a cooler foot and unique texture. They are also hand burnished at the toe and heel before being Goodyear welted, all done in the USA.


    Easy Living


    A tweed trouser (preferably one with a little legroom flow) can be an awesome casual pant. Wear them with an athletic inspired sweater, a casual jacket, and some lowtop sneakers for a sporty but classy look. The off-duty gentleman, if you will.

    On a sidenote, moleskin (heavy brushed cotton; think corduroy without the ribbed texture) is one of my favorite fabrics for the Fall/Winter. It has this incredible “moldable” structure and it’s very durable. It’s one of those fabrics that only gets better with age. The peacoat here and the topcoat above in the first look are both made of moleskin, and both are about four years old.

    Also, as you can see from this post, we have a thing for brown & green.


    The key to a good pleated trouser is having some shape through the leg, but leaving enough room through the hips so that the pleats lay flat. A lot of guys have their old pleated pants tailored for a “slim fit” but don’t leave enough room in the hips, causing the pleats to pull open and create a balloon effect just below the waist.


    Invest wisely, then enjoy your investments!


    Thanks, as always, for reading.

    Yours in style,

    Dan Trepanier

    Photography by Alex Crawford. Styling by Dan Trepanier. Modeling by William Howe

    • TO

      As I was scrolling down, each look outdid the one before it for me! The only piece I didn’t like in this whole article is the orange fuzzy houndstooth tie in “Business Mode”.

      That Levi’s sweater you advocate (here in look “Easy Living”, a look which I can take some inspiration from in my wardrobe!) is really a sharp sweat top– the slightly darker grey collar band is really a nice touch and the textured “weave” look of the piece reads more versatile than the typical ‘flat’ grey fleece that is most sweatshirts.

      • TO

        Oh, and I wanted to learn more about the “flesh out” leather. It gives a really cool to the boots. How does this compare and differ from regular suede?

    • Logan

      Noooooo! Looks like BR doesn’t carry that beautiful brown moleskine topcoat anymore!

    • Axel Ruiz

      The speckled tweed with the orange rust is too dope…. and that chunky knit cardigan looks similar to one you wore a while back with a floppy brim hat and some sick chukkas. Still remember that look from when I started reading TheStyleBlogger back when I was in high school. Great work Dan.

    • tommyjohn_45

      Love a good tweed suit. Have been searching for one in my price point for a long time now, but still no luck. Great article showing off the versatility. Would never have considered pairing a tweed trouser for an athletic inspired look.

    • Nick J.

      After seeing band collared shirts in a number of your posts, I am going to have to try that look out.

    • Olerud_4_Life

      good article. Need tweed pants (easy living selection is great).

    • cam

      i do not own any pleated trousers but may reconsider. i think the other reason they received a bad rep is due to double-pleated trousers (not mentioned in the post regarding single vs double). i think the single pleat looks quite nice.

    • Desmond

      This entire post is straight up murder – surprised the feds aren’t banging down your doors yet, Dan. Always nice to see that tweed RL cardigan getting another feature… Great way to kick off the new site!

    • Willie JS

      There goes that forest green tweed MONSTER SUIT again!!!
      Got to have one as a Christmas present from my self.
      8 )
      MAB is that fabric still available??

    • http://ledebonnaire.tumblr.com/ Juan Zara

      I love tweed, but somehow I still see it as a more casual alternative to flannel, which I prefer for business and business casual wear.
      Nevertheless, this is of great inspiration! Great to see the RL shawl cardigan is still going strong!

    • Todd Ruhnau

      Really great post. That green donegal suit is still one of your best and most versatile pieces. Look three definitely stands out as a unique blend of casual and tailored wear. I also have the BR moleskin topcoat and wear it every chance I get.

    • tom

      All three looks are awesome but look 3 just blows it out of the park. Where can I get that peacoat?