The Orange Cotton Suit

June 27th, 2014

Since Knot Standard delivered the best-fitting suit of the three brands we compared in our online custom suit review, I wanted to learn more about their business and their plans for expansion. After a great conversation with their CEO about the future of the online tailoring business, I set up an appointment to test their new Private Label (in person) service.

For my second suit I booked an at-home appointment with their LA stylist Nazli Eslami (Knot Standard now has in-person showrooms in New York, Washington DC, Dubai, Dallas, Los Angeles, and New Zealand).

Nazli was very professional and knowledgable. Together we assessed the fit of my first suit, compared it to some of my traditional bespoke garments, made some subtle fit changes, and started on the design for my newest suit. After looking through a few swatch books I landed on a Holland & Sherry cotton (yes, Private Label includes luxury fabrics from the big mills like H&S, Loro Piana, Zegna, etc) in a blazing orange color.

Five weeks later Nazli came back to do the fitting with the end result: a beautifully bold suit that will serve as the perfect summer separates.

Here’s three of the many ways I’ll be wearing it this season.

    1. Italian Summer


    This is taking a page out of the Italiano book; brightly-colored, trim-fit suiting in a seasonal fabric.

    When I ordered this suit I was planning to wear it more often as separates, but the full suit really looks sharp (if you have the cojones, and the right type of employment, to pull it off).

    As with any colorful suit, a sky blue shirt with a navy blue tie is a fool-proof way to tone it down.


    I was very satisfied with the fit of this garment; it’s by far the best made-to-measure suit I own. And, like the first one, it didn’t need any alterations after the initial fitting.

    The construction is also quite impressive. It’s a fully-canvassed jacket and all the details are on point (1/4 lining, 3-roll-2 lapels, mother of pearl buttons, patch pockets, top stitching, etc).


    The nature of cotton fabric is to show a little character. Wrinkles are part of its ease and charm.


    Nothing anchors down a whimsical suit like a serious pair of brown lace-ups like these Jefferson Wingtips by Allen Edmonds.


    2. Grandpa Casual


    This suit is like having the perfect summer blazer, only with a matching set of trousers for those times when you’re feeling extra bold.

    I own a lot of suits (over a hundred now I think) but I’ve never had anything orange. I didn’t realize how many colors look great against it. My favorite combos so far are blues, browns, greens, and khakis.


    Here’s that short-sleeved seersucker shirt again (can’t express how much I love this thing on hot sticky days), this time with a crushable felt hat and a silk patterned scarf (ala Parisien).

    Of course, this is a look that can stretch long into the Fall season as well (maybe with a flannel shirt instead of seersucker…and some cozy socks).


    I told you about my grandpa style inspirations lately, largely inspired by these old school “Woodstock” kiltie loafers.


    3. Leisure Suit


    If you’ve been following Articles of Style for a little while, you know that I love to wear suits (especially cotton ones) in casual settings.

    I do this for a number of reasons:

    • Virtually nobody wears suits casually, so it’s an easy way to stand out with a nod to traditional menswear
    • It’s a very simple way to dress. All I do is pick out a t-shirt or polo, some shades and a pair of sneakers
    • I’ve become accustomed to (perhaps even dependent on) the convenience of the pockets in a tailored jacket
    • It’s an “in-between” look that can easily transition between a number of occasions
    • People always show love when you’re tailored by choice


    As I mentioned recently, you should upgrade your polo shirt game with some new designs.

    These Michael Bastian x Uniqlo polos, for example, are awesome. I love the open neckline and the semi-structured collar that stands well under a tailored jacket.


    Lastly, Air Force Ones are back!! (not that they ever left)

    I picked up this fresh pair of white-on-white lows from JD Sports – they have an awesome selection of Nikes and retro sneakers. Post dedicated to AF1s coming soon!


    Thanks, as always, for reading.

    Yours in style,

    Articles of Style

    Photography by Alex Crawford

    • Joey

      Hello all,

      Was hoping to get a bit of clarification/advice on Knot Standard (classified as MTM by Dan) vs. a “custom” place (thinking of Paolini Garment in Dallas specifically). What specifically distinguishes custom vs MTM between these two companies, if anything at all?

      Paolini’s quote for a Super 110 in Vitale Barberis Canonico was $1295, and the same fabric from Knot is quoted at $995. Is there a reasoning for the different price points? Apologies for the very vague question, if anyone has experience with either of these companies or any custom clothiers in Dallas in general, I’d love to hear your input/any advice!

    • eminem

      very slim shady..

    • Damir Miljkovic

      So do you have to be near one of those showrooms to do the private label with knotstandard? I’d love to try it but I live in Winterpeg =/ I basically need MTM because of my odd build. But the places near me that do it (that are properly made) all start at the $1200+ range..

    • Ike S

      Is the Private Label made to measure or Bespoke? Also, with all the different terms out there whats the difference between made to measure and fully custom?

    • Stuart

      Summer suit game is on point.

    • Juan

      Oh, man, this is awesome²! It certainly is very bold, but this is a high-risk high-reward game, and you, sir, have hit the jackpot.
      I remember an old piece a while back where you wore orange chinos on a basketball court, and I thought orange was the one color I would never wear, but after this and the piece on autumn colors I am totally sold!
      Love that you’re paying homage to my city with the boutonnière hole (and I am actually surprised a MTM clothier went through the very time-consuming process of making it). Many people immediately think of Florence and Naples when talking about italian fashion and style, but Milan has a great sartorial tradition that is worth knowing about.

    • Khaled Nasr

      Wow just saw this post. I am a huge fan of Holland and Sherry fabric and this a fantastic choice. It does take some serious guts to pull off a full suit in this color but you did it perfectly. The color is spot on and doesnt go into the flourencent orange which makes this such a great choice. Great post!

    • Max BornInTheNineties

      Not quite the same quality? That’s like saying a Porsche 911 and an abandoned toy truck from a playground sandbox “aren’t quite the same quality” – that abomination is the toy version of Dan’s glorious assembly of orange cotton.

      • Suckup

        Yes, that would be known as an understatement. Your words smack of concerted effort.

    • Mario

      The colour of a World Champ, great choice!

    • Stuper[sic]Monkey

      Not sure why, but these are definitely among my favorites as far as the looks I’ve seen you in Dan. Damn–well done!

    • Unseen Flirtations

      Beautiful fit. An orange made to measure suit is the sign of a life being lived in full stride. Keep on inspiring!

    • John B

      I really like the lapels here! The orange separates look surprisingly versatile too!

    • DiiKHeaD

      I’ll be honest. This is a LOUD ass muh-trucking suit. It’s way too loud for 99.9% of your readers, and pretty much anybody who doesn’t work in fashion. But, BRUH… You, sir, are killin it. Especially in Look #3.

      And the Forces? ………Icing on the cake. Well done.

      #bytheway #nobodyathomeshouldtrythis

      • Jimmy_Johansen

        I love the look but think this look would have been 10x better with some dunks or other low profile white on whites. AF1’s are too clunky for me. (Granted I wear a size 15 so that may be dissuading me)

    • Christopher Carter

      Great suit Dan! I love the direction the site has taken with your relocation. There’s so much creativity amongst these pages. I’m glad to have witnessed the evolution of your site and business. Congrats brother.

    • Shawn

      Damn, that’s a loud suit! I think it looks very good and it gives me yet another reason to keep Knot Standard in my mind if I, one day, decide to go the MTM route. The fit seems very good, from my untrained eye. Though my personal choice would be slightly fuller, I understand that our different background and body shape might explain the taste differences! Tell me, is it possible, when requesting a 3-roll-2, to have the lapel gently roll between the 1st and middle button instead of being pressed flat like in this example? Thanks! The milanese buttonhole is a great addition!

      • Shawn

        And… 100 suits, that’s crazy! I’m betting you have equally as much shirts, and you’ve already given us a picture hint of your shoe collection, in the past!

    • Chiara Ferragni

      Dan love the looks. But please consider shaving the facial hair. You look better sans hair. Sorry. I love you though. :)

      • Ali Naaseh

        I used to HATE the scruff and now it’s really grown on me. It’s kinda taken Towni’s spot on the website

    • Robert Booth

      Its surprisingly good in the end. The last time I saw such a suit I was in a Stag do in Dublin – You can get one pretty cheap, although I’m not sure it is quite the same quality Tie Included!!!

    • ChrisD

      *slow clap..*
      I am not at the point in my life where i can fit in more than one or two suits, and you are getting MTM orange suits for the separates. All i can say is.. congrats.

      living vicariously,

    • Jeanscuffed

      I’m sure you don’t have ALL 100 suits with you in LA, right? I think I remember you saying you’ve left some garments back in NYC. I just want to know where you keep all of this lol. And that’s just 100 of SUITS! Forget a millionaire’s wardrobe, I want a blogger’s wardrobe lol.
      Great piece Dan. So many posts, I’m surprised we haven’t seen orange yet. All 3 fits are stellar! Definitely waiting for the AF-1 posts. I smell…..controversy! Keep on yo shit man.

      • Shawn

        I don’t want any blogger’s wardrobe, I would be easily satisfied with Vox’s wardrobe!

        • Jeanscuffed

          Indeed! No arguements here

    • Daniel Moretz

      That 3 button roll is a nice touch. You need to talk to Greg at the Grooming Lounge next time you’re in DC. They have the perfect hot lather shave and haircut. Any word on when the Style Guide Reloaded will be back?

    • Gavin

      Woohoooo support the oranje

    • Brady

      Love that second look, white buttons really pop on that orange jacket. You know I picked up one of those seersucker shirts from LE, amazingly light and cool. Forces w/ an orange suit… only you Dan, killin it!!

    • Miguel

      Dan, I love this suit, I’ve never been afraid of color, I own a light pink linen suit.

      This orange one is nice, it’s hard to pull like you said but it’s not a super strong orange and it works great as a suit separate.

      By the way, the second look is what I’m going for, you killed it.

    • Herbert Morrison

      This is why you’re number 1 player. Keep em’ comin’!

    • AFH

      I wish I could do orange, but it’s just not for my skin tone.

      Orange socks are very underrated though :-)

    • Alex

      Orange is the new black, baby! Love the second look especially, but look three is really crisp and clean fun as well, only thing missing was the mojito! Chambray blue shirt is my go-to combo with my orange chinos for casual summer looks. Great posts as always!

    • AJL (

      Holy hell, 100 suits?!?! My jealousy of your wardrobe just grows and grows. Great post, I don’t think I can yet pull of an orange suit, but you killed it. Gonna have to check out the selection from these guys!

      • Dan Trepanier

        “It costs to be the boss, so I guess I gotta pay”

        • Rams

          Kudos Dan, three impeccably sartorial scenarios. The cross dyed weave,with it’s iridescent glow is beautiful. And from the lapel width to the adjustable waist side tabs great choice,because we all know its in the details. Oh yeah,and that second look with the felt fedora is definitely a Don Corleone move. Out of respect. Thank You!

    • Daniel

      Great for wearing to a Netherlands game

      • Dan Trepanier

        That wasn’t the intention…but who doesn’t love Amsterdam?

    • cam

      Over 100 suits! I knew you had a lot but cot damn. That last look would’ve been too good with some simple white low top Vans, Purcells or Supergas.
      Curious as to your thought behind selecting white buttons. Wouldn’t another selection be more versatile? Awesome post as usual!

      • Dan Trepanier

        I was initially going to go with a light tortoise button, but they were out of stock… I might have them switched locally come Fall. Cheers Cam!

      • Ali Naaseh

        I agree, the last look would’ve been killer with lowcut shoes