The Orange Cotton Suit
June 27th, 2014
Since Knot Standard delivered the best-fitting suit of the three brands we compared in our online custom suit review, I wanted to learn more about their business and their plans for expansion. After a great conversation with their CEO about the future of the online tailoring business, I set up an appointment to test their new Private Label (in person) service.
For my second suit I booked an at-home appointment with their LA stylist Nazli Eslami (Knot Standard now has in-person showrooms in New York, Washington DC, Dubai, Dallas, Los Angeles, and New Zealand).
Nazli was very professional and knowledgable. Together we assessed the fit of my first suit, compared it to some of my traditional bespoke garments, made some subtle fit changes, and started on the design for my newest suit. After looking through a few swatch books I landed on a Holland & Sherry cotton (yes, Private Label includes luxury fabrics from the big mills like H&S, Loro Piana, Zegna, etc) in a blazing orange color.
Five weeks later Nazli came back to do the fitting with the end result: a beautifully bold suit that will serve as the perfect summer separates.
Here’s three of the many ways I’ll be wearing it this season.
1. Italian Summer
This is taking a page out of the Italiano book; brightly-colored, trim-fit suiting in a seasonal fabric.
When I ordered this suit I was planning to wear it more often as separates, but the full suit really looks sharp (if you have the cojones, and the right type of employment, to pull it off).
As with any colorful suit, a sky blue shirt with a navy blue tie is a fool-proof way to tone it down.
I was very satisfied with the fit of this garment; it’s by far the best made-to-measure suit I own. And, like the first one, it didn’t need any alterations after the initial fitting.
The construction is also quite impressive. It’s a fully-canvassed jacket and all the details are on point (1/4 lining, 3-roll-2 lapels, mother of pearl buttons, patch pockets, top stitching, etc).
The nature of cotton fabric is to show a little character. Wrinkles are part of its ease and charm.
Nothing anchors down a whimsical suit like a serious pair of brown lace-ups like these Jefferson Wingtips by Allen Edmonds.
2. Grandpa Casual
This suit is like having the perfect summer blazer, only with a matching set of trousers for those times when you’re feeling extra bold.
I own a lot of suits (over a hundred now I think) but I’ve never had anything orange. I didn’t realize how many colors look great against it. My favorite combos so far are blues, browns, greens, and khakis.
Of course, this is a look that can stretch long into the Fall season as well (maybe with a flannel shirt instead of seersucker…and some cozy socks).
3. Leisure Suit
If you’ve been following Articles of Style for a little while, you know that I love to wear suits (especially cotton ones) in casual settings.
I do this for a number of reasons:
- Virtually nobody wears suits casually, so it’s an easy way to stand out with a nod to traditional menswear
- It’s a very simple way to dress. All I do is pick out a t-shirt or polo, some shades and a pair of sneakers
- I’ve become accustomed to (perhaps even dependent on) the convenience of the pockets in a tailored jacket
- It’s an “in-between” look that can easily transition between a number of occasions
- People always show love when you’re tailored by choice
As I mentioned recently, you should upgrade your polo shirt game with some new designs.
These Michael Bastian x Uniqlo polos, for example, are awesome. I love the open neckline and the semi-structured collar that stands well under a tailored jacket.
Lastly, Air Force Ones are back!! (not that they ever left)
I picked up this fresh pair of white-on-white lows from JD Sports – they have an awesome selection of Nikes and retro sneakers. Post dedicated to AF1s coming soon!
- Sunglasses by Matsuda Eyewear
- Orange Cotton Suit
- Polo shirt by Uniqlo x Michael Bastian
- Brown leather duffle by Frank Clegg Leatherworks
- White “Air Force One Low” sneakers by Nike courtesy of JD Sports
Thanks, as always, for reading.
Yours in style,
Articles of Style
Photography by Alex Crawford