Linen Layers feat. Ryan Kelly
June 2nd, 2014
Ryan Kelly, aka the tailored outdoorsman, aka @Gritty Sart, knows a thing or two about layering up some linen for the warmer months.
“I was born in Boca Raton, Fl and raised in Tallahassee. Growing up I was constantly outside hunting, fishing and hiking. After high school I went to Florida State University for political science as I was unsure of what I wanted to do. Through my time at FSU I started to concentrate on fashion and my personal style started to develop. I realized that this was my passion, that I needed to get a true education in apparel and design. I decided to attend Miami International University of Art and Design to pursue a bachelor of fine arts in apparel design.
Soon after my time at MIU I was introduced to Angel Ramos who hired and mentored me at my first job with Astor and Black custom clothiers. I fell in love with tailoring, particularly the Italians’ soft take on it, and Angel’s passion for it quickly translated to mine. We worked together for about 2 years and he then left and started his company, ANGEL | BESPOKE. I knew I wanted to do the same at some point but stuck with A&B to further my learning and experience. The company was shut down and it presented the perfect opportunity to move to the epicenter of fashion in the US; NYC.
I started working at Suit Supply in February at the Soho location and could not be happier. It definitely helps that I live a couple blocks from the store too.”
Here Ryan, a born and raised outdoorsman, gives us a taste of his day-to-day personal style which he accurately describes as “Gritty Sartorial”.
1. Well Blended
The beauty of linen is its ability to blend well with other fabrics such as wool, cotton or silk. So if you don’t want the full-on wrinkly look, you can opt for just a little bit of that linen texture and character. This silk blend jacket is a great example.
The first word in the fabric blend is always the majority (for example “cotton/linen” is mostly cotton, and “linen/cotton” is mostly linen). Always check the percentages of the blend (which should be broken-down on the tag) as this can give you a better idea of how the garment will wear and perform over time.
“Once I started working in the tailoring world I really started to hone my personal style. Prior to tailoring I wore strictly streetwear and rarely threw on a sports jacket, let alone a suit and tie. Now I often find myself melding the two together; airing heavier on the tailoring side with a little streetwear peppered in sparingly.”
Menswear is all about the small details: polka dot summer watch band, surgeon’s cuffs, last buttonhole contrast, double pic-stitched patch pockets…
2. Summer Tweed Jacket
“Summer Tweed” is a real thing. Typically it’s a wool/silk/linen blend. Our boy Angel was the first one to coin the phrase on Articles of Style, when he wore what was maybe the best jacket we’ve ever featured.
Again here with the cotton/linen pants; a perfect lightweight twist on a classic pair of chinos.
“Style is an extension of your character and personality. It tells a story and makes a statement, whether bold and in-your-face or understated and minimalist. Either way, it’s you.”
3. Linen Knit Jacket
One secret to layering in the warmer months is linen knitwear.
Linen can be knit into a sweater-like fabric, like this vintage cardigan styled to mimic a tailored jacket (lapels, patch pockets, breast pocket).
“The brown glenplaid shirt I got for $3 at a thrift shop in North Carolina while I was visiting a friend’s cabin about 10 years ago. It sat in my closet for ages and I just recently ‘rediscovered’ it and now it’s one of my favorite shirts that I own. I just recently found out that it’s a reproduction of a vintage piece from the Brooks Brothers archives, as well… So that makes it that much better, obviously.”
Linen can also be used for summer espadrilles. It’s usually a thicker, more canvas-y linen, but it has the same cooling benefits.
Thanks, as always, for reading.
Yours in style,
Articles of Style
Photography by Westley Dimagiba.