April 29th, 2014
As mentioned, moving to southern California has had a gradual effect on our style here at Articles of Style HQ LA. I didn’t get away from tailoring (probably never will), I just started looking for ways to make it breezier and more casual feeling.
Here’s a great example: the sleeveless suit. Otherwise known as the lapeled vest with matching trousers. It’s a look that Wes and I have been experimenting with for a while, on our respective coasts.
Here’s a few examples.
1. Go-To Grey
This just shows the advantage to including a waistcoat to make your suits three-pieces. On warm days Wes doesn’t have to remove the jacket, he can forgo it all together.
I like 7 buttons on single-breasted waistcoats for guys who are 6′ or taller. Five looks unrefined because there is so much space between the buttons, and six can look awkward because it can visually cut the upper body in half (in theory, according to most menswear design schools).
Did you catch the subtle horizontal stripe shirt? How about the hand pic stitching on the lapels? Or the bowed shape of the full-sized lapels? Or the tortoise horn buttons?
…Menswear is all about the details.
Just like a suit jacket, a waistcoat has a lining. And when you go custom, you can get as funky as you like.
On this one Wes went with the naval architect blueprints – perhaps to signify that he’s laying down the foundation for a life on a boat b-tch!
You gotta love a loafer with a clean toe shape that you can wear with virtually anything. Nice choice Wes.
- Grey vest w/ wide lapels by Michael Andrews Bespoke (Wes’ design)
- Blue horizontal stripe shirt by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- Yellow print tie Vintage
- Grey suit pants by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- Brown leather portfolio by Holdall & Co
- Brown leather Singleton loafer by Ralph Lauren Polo
2. Sleeveless Banker
Some serious banker inspirations with this one: the bold chalkstripe, the DB front, the black shoes, the contrast collar & cuffs, etc.
This is one of my about-my-money-in-a-creative-way outfit.
This waistcoat is 6×2 double-breasted with pointed front panels.
In the following look Wes’ waistcoat is 4×2 with a square cut bottom, ala Steve McQueen x Thomas Crown.
These small design details can really change the look & feel of the piece.
Again all about the details: vintage “revolver” cufflinks, curved french cuffs, gunmetal buttons, silk knit tie, interior DB button, paisley lining, clean waistband…
- Black shades by Lookmatic
- Navy triple chalkstripe waisctoat and trousers by Michael Andrews Bespoke (cloth by Ariston)
- Grey stripe contrast collar shirt by Ralph Lauren Black Label
- Burgundy knit tie Kent & Curwen
- Vintage “revolver” cufflinks
- Black leather tassel loafers by Allen Edmonds
3. Glenplaid Two-Piece
Not only does it breathe better and give you a more comfortable range of motion, there is also an inherent confidence in being fully dressed for business but not needing a traditional suit jacket.
Maybe that’s what I like about this look, it says “I’m about my business, but on my own terms”.
Just like a tailored suit jacket, the pockets on a waistcoat are always very useful.
This glenplaid number has patch pockets, custom sized perfectly to fit Wes’ credit card wallet, phone and business cards in a secret coin pocket. With slim trousers you want to avoid carrying any luggage in the thigh (or rear) pockets.
Keep it tailored. Keep it fresh.
Thanks for reading.
Yours in style,
Articles of Style