A Sartorial Winter feat. Angel Ramos

February 17th, 2014

After the success of Summertime Tailoring feat. Angel Ramos, we had to bring him back for a winter story. And let’s face it, Angel is one of the flyest guys in todays’s menswear game.

2013 was a big year for Angel and his brand ANGEL | BESPOKE, and 2014 is shaping up to be even bigger.

“I’m thankful to say it was a blessed 2013. It was my first year running ANGEL | BESPOKE full-time. I’m very thankful for all of the great relationships I was able to build with clients, vendors and fellow menswear enthusiasts from all over the world.

As we roll into 2014 I’m excited about so many new things we’re working on. New manufacturing: hand-made in Italy & New York. New website: finally launching in early Spring…  I’m also working on a small collection of summer tassel loafers in conjunction with Pitti Uomo – it’ll be awesome!

And… my wife Faith and I will be moving back to NYC to open our first private showroom this summer. It’s a very exciting time as we move back to not only my hometown, but one of the world’s premier fashion capitals. Also, more than 75% of my clientele is either based in NYC or travels to the city regularly [which includes a range of sartorial gentlemen from bigtime corporate CEOs, to NFL & NBA players, to Fashion Icons from around the world].”

We caught up with Angel at New York Fashion Week to talk business and give you a taste of some of his highly sought-after winter tailoring.

Here’s three of his NYFW looks.

    1. Crushing Velvet

    048

    “I call this my Opus jacket! Haha. It’s a beautiful full-bodied crushed velvet. This fabric is actually called “Bordeaux” by Ariston Napoli. The fit and feel of this jacket is outstanding – very warm and plush.

    I paired it with these flannel glenplaid trousers (part of a suit) that have the wine colored accent stripe. With the oxblood shoes, the deep rep hues tie it all together and compliment the grey tones.”

    052

    When you find the perfect hat, wear it with everything.

    “Attending Pitti Uomo the last three years has been great for my career as a luxury clothier; networking and growing an international following. I’ve made some amazing friends across the pond, which I’ve come to call my fratellos. From guys who work with established menswear houses like Kiton, d’Venza and Suit Supply to talented artisans such as tie makers from Stockholm.

    I also got to know Francesco Barbera Formangiani who is the grandson of the great Luciano Barbera and the future heir of the 30+ year old luxury brand. He was wearing this vintage LB hat on the first day of the show and I was enamored by it. It was the perfect hat. The next day I was speechless when he gave it to me, because he knew how much I loved it. He also included the amazing backstory behind this particular hat involving the legendary Luciano Barbera himself… Needless to say, it means a lot me now.”

    053

    “Shoes are custom made by Scarpe Dibianco. I love wearing this brand not only because the owner Bill White is a great and close friend but the quality and make of shoe is amazing.”

    057

    2. Scarf & Stripes

    005

    Angel is almost always wearing bespoke, but not always in a stuffy or corporate way. He has a knack for blending dressy with casual, such as his spread collar shirt and power-stripe flannel suit trousers with a denim jacket and chukka boots.

    “It’s funny I get so many compliments on this scarf…I purchased it about six years ago on an NYC street corner because I felt I was getting cold and sick. It was $6. It’s “pashmina”, or at least that’s what is says on the tag. It’s definitely cheap, but as Dan has written several times, it’s all about styling and confidence. People typically assume this scarf is baby cashmere imported from the hills of Umbria, or something like that. Haha.”

    007

    I love the mix of sharp bespoke (shirt, tie, trousers) with worn-in vintage (hat, jacket, scarf) in this look.

    On another note, Angel has transition lenses in his chunky tortoise frames. Inside they are clear eyeglasses, but step outside into the sun and they quickly fade into shades. I’ve always loved transitions and can’t figure out why more guys don’t take advantage of them…

    010

    Also, how about the subtle nod to the old-school with the paisley tie, while subtly tying in the orange color accent. That’s pro stuff.

    011

    3. Bespoke Overcoat

    012

    “I named this coat the Dumbo Militario for its vintage military inspiration and the huge lapels that look like floppy elephant ears.

    Prior to traveling to Florence this past January, I wanted to make a coat that reckoned back to an earlier time in fashion & history. If you know me, then you know I’m obsessed with the fashion of the prohibition period and the clothing that was designed for military purposes (much of which we still wear today). I found an old war picture of a soldier wearing an incredible overcoat and I knew immediately that I had to create an updated sartorial version… It’s been a great hit already. After having my photo taken wearing it at Pitti Uomo, I’ve now re-created it for several of my clients.”

    022

    Even your casual wear can be custom-made. Angel is one of the few guys I’ve met that offers custom knitwear – like this cashmere turtleneck sized perfectly for his frame.

    Fun story about the popped-collar-under-turtleneck trend. It was the Duke of Windsor who started it (along with several other trends). As a avid golfer and fan of the turtleneck, he would get cold on the links and throw one on. The country clubs at that time, however, had a strict “collared shirt necessary” rule. So he would pop the collar under the turtleneck so that just the points of the collar would peek-out… If anyone said anything, it was “Hey, I got a collar right here”.

    027

    The back of this coat has some incredible details too, like an expandable center seam, pleated/belted waist, and adjustable vent with working buttons.

    033

    Angel works with a wide range of clients from corporate giants, to giant athletes. He not only keeps them sharp and tailored, he also helps teach them about building a proper wardrobe and crafting an image that is confident and tasteful. The only thing his clients have in common is their passion for quality menswear and their discerning eye for the subtleties of personal style.

    I’m particularly excited for some of the features we have coming up with Angel’s big-name athlete clientele. He’s living proof that the right tailor/stylist combo can have a ball player looking like a confident, established professional – rather than the fashion victims who’ve become the laughing stocks of NBA press conferences.

    028

     

    Thanks, as always, for reading.

    Yours in style,

    Articles of Style

     

    Photography by Alex Crawford 

    • http://whentowear.tumblr.com/ WhenToWear

      Yeah, that’s what it looks like from a modern RTW perspective, at least from the English side. I was referring more to the bespoke houses of yesteryear. But it’s a good point you bring up.

      • TO

        Yes that’s what I said you said, but you bringing that up reminded me of my rant that followed! Lol

    • Mitko

      I dont know what you guys changed about the commenting function from the last site to this one, but it works great. Just feels much more like a real conversation. Especially helpful for us folks that live out in the Midwest where it’s sometimes hard to find people to discuss menswear with. Good Job and thank you!!

      • http://tsbmen.com/ Alex Crawford

        We’re really excited about the new commenting system too! So glad you like it.

    • http://instagram.com/stevensantander Steven Santander

      Really enjoyed these versatile looks, my kind of outfits. Great job as always Angel and Dan!

    • http://www.lucidlingo.com.au/ Gazman

      Great looks! Don’t want to be pedantic and for all I know Angel probably
      speaks the lingo fluently but shouldn’t it be ‘fratelli’ not fratellos?

      • http://www.TSBmen.com/ Dan Trepanier

        Hmm. Not sure…but whatever Angel wants to calls his boys is up to him, I think.

    • Khaled Nasr

      Great to see another feature with Angel All the looks are killer as usual. Especially that last green military jacket!

      • http://angelbespoke.tumblr.com/ Angel Ramos

        BROTHER BROTHER!!!

      • http://www.TSBmen.com/ Dan Trepanier

        Great Disqus profile pic Khaled!

        • Khaled Nasr

          Thanks Dan!! Taken by the best team in the business! ;)

    • Daniel

      Thanks for another Angel Ramos feature! Excellent as always – I particularly like looks one and three and the increasingly distinguished-looking beard. Two questions:
      1) Where did you shoot looks two and three? Looks like a place worth checking out.
      2) What does the inscription on the back of the neck of the dumbo coat say?

      • http://angelbespoke.tumblr.com/ Angel Ramos

        All shots were done in Bed Stuy Do or Die! haha It says Angel Bespoke

    • Adrian B

      Awesome post. Look one is a serious killer !

    • Miguel

      Angel is one of my style idols along with Dan, love his looks, always on point, too bad my budget can reach Angel’s line of clothing.
      All three looks were fantastic, just got myself some new outfit ideas.

      By the way, if you buy an overcoat, should it fit above your knees, at your knees or does it matter?

      • TO

        Miguel- get it above the knees my man, somewhere from knee to mid-thigh depending on your preference

        • http://angelbespoke.tumblr.com/ Angel Ramos

          Miguel I agree with TO, though if its made for you, it’s up to you. I try to keep it about 3″ above knee

          • http://www.TSBmen.com/ Dan Trepanier

            Above the knee is more versatile…but I’m on that floor length bossiness lately!

    • Jaws

      Standard iGent. This guy doesn’t have enough to nuance to be a tailor. Sleeves tight, waist tight. Back tie blade affection. Imagine this guys main market is men who don’t know how to discern details. This serves as a useful pictorial guide for what to avoid when going tailored.

      • Mark Smith

        One word, brother. Preference. Or as it’s commonly known – style.

        I personally think his fit compliments him perfectly, but just because he chooses to wear things the way he does, doesn’t mean he dresses his clients that way. I have no doubt that Angel is a professional dude and knows his shit, and would tailor his work according to the particular customer’s body and preference.

      • cam

        @Jaws – pretty strong words for not knowing the man you speak about…my tailor, for instance, initially tried to get me in 18 in openings for my trouser leg with full break and very long jacket because he is old school and wears his stuff in a trad manner…guess what? I take my fit a little more modern and we spoke and my shit is perfect…just because angel wears his clothes this way doesn’t mean he forces his clients to do the same…from the little I know of angel (following his social media) he seems to be a very humble and knowledgable man who I’m sure is more than qualified to work with clients…if nothing else, he is overly critical of the details…regardless of what trad ppl like you consider the “correct” tailored fit, there is more than one way to skin a cat…if you took the time to look at his tumblr, you would see many of his clients in more trad cuts…but you simply chose to make assumptions instead

      • http://whentowear.tumblr.com/ WhenToWear

        What qualifies you to be a tailor? Each tailor has their own preference and style. Hell each country has its own style. American tailors used to push the sack suit. It draped well but provided little shape. English tailors liked to cut a strong V figure. Nice broad shoulders and a nipped waist. Every tailor and client have preferences on the style they would like their garment cut. Just because it doesn’t fit into your’s doesn’t mean he isn’t qualified.

        • TO

          You brought up a good point that I have been meaning to touch on. Maybe something good can come of this ‘discerning’ reader Jaws’ comments.

          Isn’t it funny that the cut you described as being traditionally English (wide shoulders, narrow waist) seems to be the modern-day look from the Italians? As pointed out in this blog (and more commonly noticed by many internet readers from the ‘famous’ Italian Pitti Uomo pictures, etc.), most chief example being:

          http://tsbmen.com/35744/italian-power-tailoring-feat-khaled-nasr/

          This combined with an observation that a lot of British fashion houses in recent years have taken to the more “modern” razor slim-cut/slim silhouette (narrow lapels, minimal shoulder pad) that we all know.

          In this way, it is almost like the two areas (Britain vs. Italy) have swapped preference for how they cut their suits from a traditional standpoint. Of course, this is mostly just based on internet observation, and I haven’t traveled to these areas to get a better idea of how they actually dress in general. Maybe others can chime in on whether this is true or not-?

      • Jaws

        iGent problem #1: Understanding tight isn’t right – iGent problem #2: Find your own style. Wearing your tie blade longer, beard with cropped head, italian hats, wearing denim jackets with ties – these things can all be found trending on your local #menswear or your favorite GQ Rules. The problem with these looks is that the outfits are all attention grabbing/notice me looks that don’t fit right or seem to really have any context.

        • Jimi Brady

          Just so we’re all aware of what we should aspire to, could you show us your portfolio of handmade clothing, or else a few photos of you rocking your style (which must be exquisitely tasteful, obviously)? If you can’t, don’t worry about it – we can’t all be successful in the fashion industry, or even in the way we dress.

      • http://www.TSBmen.com/ Dan Trepanier

        Jaws, why are you always so mad?

        • Jaws

          Cuz I’m Shakespeare in the flesh, Walt Dis, Nike, Google.

    • kfung

      Always welcome a new Angel post. Love all the looks, all very inspiring, I’ve also got the transitional lenses because I drive a lot and the type I have will darken behind a windscreen, so convenient!

    • Ali Naaseh

      Angel looks great, especially in that last look. Amazing coat.
      A few things, though:
      – Style Guide is still sluggish on all browsers, I haven’t been able to pull up a single look yet.
      – The “next look” button on mobile is there, but doesn’t work.

      • AJ

        x2 on the Style Guide

    • TO

      Beautiful clothes from Angel as always, he must be a human furnace to survive the northeast winter in some of these looks…

      Particularly love the crushed velvet blazer and I’m sure it’s actually pretty warm. Can anyone provide more examples or explanation of crushed velvet? I have a Wiki understanding now, but am interested in the process and difference of it versus regular velvet, it really creates a beautiful finish.

      I can relate to fining the “perfect hat”, I have been searching for one of my own for a while- that one is a really great shape, colour and fabric (& not too big nor too small) making it very versatile. What is the width of the brim Angel? Also, great coat with amazing details!

      • http://whentowear.tumblr.com/ WhenToWear

        Crushed velvet is usually made in 100% cotton or in a cotton blend. Can be done in silk but much, much more expensive. It’s a woven fabric. The pile on the velvet is pushed and crinkled under pressure which creates distinct patterns. The crushing also creates a softer hand and makes the fabric much more lustrous.

        Studying fashion merchandising and that’s what they told us.

      • http://angelbespoke.tumblr.com/ Angel Ramos

        I’ll have to check, I’m currently out of country. But I assume 2.5-2.75″

        • Matthew Boxx

          Angel I love your stuff, how do we contact you? I sent an email but see now your are O/S, when do you get back?

    • Jeanscuffed

      Angel is always a favorite for me and this article is no dissappointment. He always wins in my book, and Look #3’s jacket?? NICE!
      I’ve read in past articles that Angel used to have an athletic build but it seems he is losing weight. It looks great on him whether he did or didn’t lose weight, but it just looks like he’s at a smaller build from his past features.

      • Jeanscuffed

        Also, I wanted to add to my questions: In Look #2, I see snow in the background but see Angel wearing a button down and denim jacket up top. Yes, granted he does have on a scarf, but I just wanted to know if this look up top would be warm enough because when I see piles of snow I just imagine really fridgid temps.

        • http://whentowear.tumblr.com/ WhenToWear

          He has lost a lot of weight, I agree he looks good.

        • http://angelbespoke.tumblr.com/ Angel Ramos

          I wanted to show versatility in mixing a casual jacket historically in a sartorial way. Thanks for the kind comments!

      • http://angelbespoke.tumblr.com/ Angel Ramos

        I’m not going to lie, I used to be pretty atheletic when I played college baseball and baseball in different countries. I was weighing about 240 in my playing days solid. After many years being away from sports I dropped down to about 225 slightly built and slightly out of shape. About 3 years ago I changed my diet drastically to a plant based diet and lost about 50 pounds. I usually hover between 185-190. It drops at times based on the amount of travel I do…

        • http://www.TSBmen.com/ Dan Trepanier

          #plantlife

    • Mitko

      When I saw the last look, the bespoke overcoat, I couldn’t help but think of this post in GQ a couple of months back that came out of one of their 70s issues…that’s some manly s***

    • John B

      The coat is amazing But those grained oxblood wingtips stole the show.
      He had a coat/jacket on top of the denim jacket on look #2? Because the denim jacket alone seems a bit lightweight when there’s snow around!

      • http://angelbespoke.tumblr.com/ Angel Ramos

        Yeah, it would definitely be a bit light for the weather which has been insane this winter but I wanted to show versatility in mixing a casual jacket historically in a sartorial way.

        • http://www.TSBmen.com/ Dan Trepanier

          You could always throw that badass overcoat over it.

    • kid_icarus

      That coat in look #3 is SICK.

      As for “transitions” lenses, they creep me out for some reason. They’re great in theory, but never seem to work in reality.
      I always seem to see them in the transition stage, and never purely clear or purely sunglasses-mode, and the smokey lens look is unsettling in my opinion.

      • HL Merkin

        The other thing is that they’re useless the one time you really need sunglasses: driving when it’s bright. Since the lens darkening effect is triggered by UV light, it doesn’t work when it’s filtered through the car windshield. Apparently they have come up with a newer tech that adapts somewhat, but I’m skeptical. I got rid of my transitions a few years back and put some prescription sunglass lenses in a pair of Persols instead – practical and stylish.

        • http://www.lucidlingo.com.au/ Gazman

          Yes, was just about to write the same thing. I ditched my transitions for the same reason and have prescription sunnies, too.

        • http://www.TSBmen.com/ Dan Trepanier

          But then you have to carry two pairs? Personally I don’t wear prescriptions, so I don’t have a lot of experience with these…

          • HL Merkin

            Yup, but it doesn’t take up any more space than carrying one pair of sunglasses does for someone who doesn’t wear glasses, since one pair is always being worn. Just swap out as needed.

    • RO

      Inspirational post….well written.
      RO

      • http://www.TSBmen.com/ Dan Trepanier

        RO! The man. Thank you Sir.

    • Shawn

      Angel, I love all of those looks! I especially love the hat, and the history along with it! Also, I’ve got a thing for those officer overcoat with polo (oversized) collars and back center seam and belted waist! Nailed it as usual!

      • http://angelbespoke.tumblr.com/ Angel Ramos

        Thanks Shawn! Appreciate the kind words

    • http://whentowear.tumblr.com/ WhenToWear

      Angel, if you see this who does your lenses? Currently have transitions in my glasses but they stopped working too quickly and never got dark enough. How often do you replace them?

      • http://angelbespoke.tumblr.com/ Angel Ramos

        Hey, Thanks for commenting! My frames are Retro Super Future, Ciccio Model. Transitions are quite tricky… What I was told when I purchased them, (and it worked) was that you have to train the lenses to get dark. So the first couple of days I had my glasses I pretty much left them under the sun to get used to getting as dark as they possibly can. So honestly on some bright and sunny days, this lenses get so dark that they look black, however on cloudy days they look oddly tinted. Hope that helped!

    • cam

      Ooh kill ’em

    • Wieczorek

      That hat is outstanding! It makes me certain I need one as well.

      Angel is the best dressed gentleman on the internet, no doubt about it. I like both the formal and casual looks.

    • tommyjohn_45

      Great looks as always.. Many I love the glenplaid trousers in look 1.

    • Juan

      More Angel please! This guy’s style is flawless!