Not F*cking Around Coats
January 28th, 2013
We’ve been doing plenty of “heavy fabrics and layering instead of big coats” lately, but then Old Man Winter came through and put an abrupt end to that sh-t.
It’s now officially freezing cold in NYC. The type of cold that calls for a winter suit and a monster coat.
Here are three of my go-to “not f-cking around” winter coats.
1. Vintage Military Parka
I’m a big fan of combining something new, like this bespoke suit, with something old, like this military parka.
I found this coat at a vintage store a couple years ago and had my tailor Franklin slim it down through the body and sleeves. It’s an absolute beast. Weighs probably 10 pounds. Like most clothing manufactured for the military, it’s built to last through the harshest of conditions.
My favorite detail on this jacket is the hood zipper, which allows me to change the coat’s silhouette. Unzipped, the shearling-lined hood lays flat over the upper back (see above). Zipped, the hood takes a more functional shape (see below).
Typically, I try not to a wear knit hats with a suited look because they tend to squash and ruin my hairstyle. A hood is nice because it can protect your head and face from the elements without the hard compression of a beanie. Once I get inside I can just run my fingers through my hair and the ‘do’ comes back to life.
On another note, light grey and brown is an underrated color combination.
In the winter, good suits deserve good boots.
- Vintage olive parka
- Light grey wool suit jacket by Michael Andrews Bespoke (Cloth by Ariston #AR A866/8)
- Grey stripe contrast collar shirt by Ralph Lauren Black Label
- Brown wool tie Vintage
- Brown woven leather gloves by Hilts and Willard
- Brown suede chukka boots by Massimo Dutti
2. That 70s Coat
The 70’s are back baby!
This is the warmest overcoat I own. A super-wide-wale corduroy with a heavy quilted lining and goat hair trim. It’s so warm that with a hat and scarf I’m at risk of sweating on an average winter day.
Over a double-breasted flannel suit, it’s nice and cozy.
Similar to a classic camel overcoat, the neutral color of this piece allows for a nice contrast over a dark suit.
I’ve had these wingtips since my junior year of college (when I was a hardcore eBay hustler and traded for them on the cheap).
More than 5 years later they’re looking and feeling better than ever. That’s why you invest $300+ (or put in the time to seek out a good deal) for a well-made pair of shoes.
- Corduroy goat hair trimmed overcoat by Dolce & Gabbana
- Flannel chalkstripe DB suit by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- White cotton pocket square
- Navy & red plaid french cuff shirt by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- Grey wool tie by Thom Browne
- Brown leather wingtips by Gucci
3. Straight Cash-Mere
I designed this cashmere overcoat earlier this season as a classy, wearable piece with a slight twist.
It has a midnight blue body, black lapels, black sleeves and a black velvet collar. The contrasts are purposely very subtle.
The length of this overcoat, hitting a few inches above the knee, allows it to work equally well over a suit as it does with a casual look. With that said, I recently placed an order for a mid-calf-length camelhair topcoat. The full length coat is mature, bossy and on its way “back”, in my opinion.
As I touched on in look 1, keeping your head warm without messing up the hair can be tricky.
These wrap-around ear muffs, $5 from an NYC street stand, are very handy. They’re discreet and surprisingly warm.
Wool knit ties are to the Winter what silk knit ties are to the Summer.
- Black wrap-around ear muffs from NYC street vendor
- Cashmere Overcoat by MAB (by Dan Trepanier)
- Charcoal wool scarf by Kenneth Cole
- Grey shadowplaid suit jacket by Michael Andrews Bespoke (cloth by Ariston)
- Red micro houndstooth shirt by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- Burgundy wool knit tie Vintage
- Light grey flannel trousers by Michael Andrews Bespoke
- Black woven leather gloves by Hilts and Willard
- Watch by Montblanc Timewalker Automatic
- Black leather wingtip boots by Paul Smith
- Black leather document case by Frank Clegg x Dan Trepanier
Thanks, as always, for reading.
Yours in style,
Photography by Alex Crawford.