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Unexpected Layering, Pt. II

January 14th, 2013

Again, menswear is all about simplicity and investing in smart, long-lasting pieces.

But that doesn’t mean it can’t be creative.

Here’s Part II. (See Part I).

1. Denim Insulation

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A denim jacket should fit like a cardigan; close to the body, snug but not tight, with just enough room to button comfortably.

If it fits properly, it should slide easily under a trench or topcoat – providing insulation, contrast, and the option to go casual once you leave the office.

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My most recent trousers are pleated (one subtle, shallow pleat), slightly higher waisted, wider through the leg, and hemed with a slight break (the braces are hiking them a little here).

The adjustments I made to my trouser pattern were very minor (fractions of inches spread across multiple seams) but the difference in silhouette, and comfort, is easily noticeable.

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A pale pink shirt in the middle of winter? Why not, it looks awesome with forest green.

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  • Grey cashmere beanie by JCrew ·
  • Navy cotton mac raincoat by APC ·
  • Denim jacket by Levis Vintage ·
  • Beige/Pink Silk/Wool glenplaid tie by Marshall Anthony ·
  • Striped nylon and leather braces by Trafalgar ·
  • Burgundy tassel loafers by Johnston & Murphy
  • · Pink micro-check shirt
  • · Forest green donegal tweed trousers

2. Sweater on Sweater

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Layer them thin sweaters. A turtleneck under a cardigan is a very sleek, cozy and mature look.

You don’t need loud colors or bold accesories (in many cases, these can make a man look less confident). Keep it simple, and mix seasonal fabrics in masculine colors.

Fore example, this look is just five classic menswear staples, in: chocolate moleskin, camel cashmere, forest lambswool, brown tweed and burgundy leather.

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I bought this moleskin topcoat from Banana Republic in a size small (keep in mind I’m 6’2″ 190lbs), knowing that I would not be able to wear it over a suit jacket.

I wear a Medium more often, but the smaller size fits better through the shoulders (without a jacket under it), slimmer through the sleeves, and is short enough to wear as a casual jacket.

The fit and fabric make this traditional dress coat a weekend staple for me. I think of it more like a peacoat than a topcoat.

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  • Brown moleskin topcoat by Banana Republic ·
  • Camel turtleneck sweater by Gucci ·
  • Forest green wool cardigan by Uniqlo ·
  • Braided leather belt by Trafalgar ·
  • Oxblood captoe dress boots by Scarpe di Bianco
  • · Brown donegal tweed suit trousers

3. Jacket? Cardigan? Pajama!

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I already let my secret out of the bag, here, so what the hell.

This tailored flannel pajama shirt can also function as a lightweight jacket, or layered as a cardigan.

Pajama tops, as you would expect, run very large. I bought the smallest size, removed the pocket, and had my tailors shorten it, take-in the sides and slim the sleeves.

As usual, I’m not necessarily recommending a winter-weight pajama top as a sweater. This is my personal style, to be used as inspiration and to offer an ongoing dialogue regarding creativity in “classic” menswear.

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A little aside:

When I started TheStyleBlogger in 2009, while working in the mens buying office at Saks Fifth Avenue, I wrote anonymously for the first year (see the original website here).

On December 5th 2009, I published a post highlighting “Sweat Trousers” and, in order to get the point across, included the first picture of myself on the site (see the post here).

After publishing that post I received an email from a traditional conservative gent who thought the entire concept of “dressy sweat pants” was ludicrous and that the “dressy/casual thing” was going to fade quickly.

He ended his email with “…so what’s next, pajamas with a suit?!”.

Well sir, wherever you are, this one‘s for you.

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  • Grey tortoise shades by Matsuda ·
  • Blackwatch plaid flannel pajama top by Polo Ralph Lauren ·
  • Navy knit tie by J.Crew ·
  • Watch by Montblanc Timewalker Automatic ·
  • Nato Striped grosgrain watch strap by Corvus ·
  • Brown alligator belt and silver buckle by Ralph Lauren Purple Label ·
  • Grey marled socks by Gap ·
  • Brown suede wingtips by JCrew
  • · Grey/white hairline stripe shirt
  • · Grey flannel suit trousers

 

Thanks, as always, for reading.

Yours in style,

Dan Trepanier

 

Photography by Alex Crawford